Heera Ram Khattar haveli, near Bagh Nilab (Attock)

Here is another article on an old 'haveli' (mansion) of Attock area of North Punjab. This was built in late 1880s by Heera Ram Khattar, a prominent Hindu merchant of the area of Bagh Nilab , close to the River Indus (Sindhu).

As already discussed in earlier articles, the Khattars are an ancient indigenous tribe of Pakistan and India, who are probably either of Rajput or Jatt origins, or even Khatris, according to some people. During the time of the invasion of the Muslim Sultan Mahmud Ghazni, a large section of this tribe, under their leader or chief Khattar Raja, embraced Islam and the same chief became 'Khattar Khan' after conversion. While majority of these Khattars became Muslims henceforth, some remained either Hindus or became Sikhs later on. At different times, many of the non -Muslim Khattars shifted to other areas e.g to India (Punjab, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh) and Afghanistan (Kabul, Jalalabad) and set up businesses or agricultural activities etc. Today famous Indian Khattars include CM of Haryana Manohar Lal Khattar, famous Indian actor Rajesh Khattar and others.

One family of such Hindu Khattars who migrated to India, were the family of late Heera Ram Khattar,  who was during the late 19th century a prominent merchant of Attock district of North Punjab (then in British India). His family had lived for centuries close to Bagh Nilab on the Indus, one of the ancient homes of the Khattar tribe, even in pre-Islamic days. Later on, this place Bagh Nilab also became famous historically as in 1221 AD, the Muslim Sultan Jalaludin of Khwarezem (a kingdom in Central Asia) escaped from some place nearby, by crossing the river Indus. He was being chased by the armies of the Mongols, led by Chengiz Khan. It is said that some local Khattars helped Jalaludin with food, hospitality etc, after his bold escape.

Anyhow, some Hindu families of Khattars went on living in this area at that time and they had a good trade in grain and food stuffs, and also supplied the British Indian Army, during the 1840s till 1930s. Perhaps, the most well-known and prosperous of  these Hindu Khattars, was late Lala Heera Ram Khattar, who died in 1902. Heera Ram developed his family business and expanded it in many fields and made a lot of wealth and , as still a middle-aged man, in late 1880s (probably between 1887 and 1890) made a small but beautiful typical style 'haveli' mansion close to his native village. From that time , till the 1930s, this 'haveli'; saw the hey-dey of this Khattar family.

Lala Heera Ram himself died in 1902 but his sons carried on the business, but in 1932, due to some reason, there was a family split and his two surviving sons, Kirpa Ram and Mangat Ram, went into litigation against each other--thus nearly bankrupting the family business. The decline began and , in 1947, when the partition of India and Pakistan occurred, the heirs of this family moved away to India. Nothing more is known about them.

Meanwhile, their fine 'haveli' was left to rack and ruin, and today, only some small features or portions of it still survive. A sad story indeed.

                                       Heera Ram Khattar circa 1880s-90s

                      The fine surviving entrance to Heera Ram haveli, today 

Barrister's House, Gurdwara Galli, Abbottabad

by Ilyas Khan

In Abbottabad town, in the hills of the North-West Frontier (KPK now) , in Pakistan, there is a famous old street called 'Gurdwara Galli' (lit Temple Street) .

In the pre-1947 days, when lots of Sikhs and Hindus used to live here, this street had a 'Gurdwara' --a Sikh temple (hence its name) -- and also a Hindu 'Arya Samaj' sect temple. In addition, it had residential houses of some prominent Sikh and Hindu residents of the town, both notable businessmen and professionals, such as lawyers, doctors and such. Unlike the majority of local Muslims, the Sikhs and Hindus of Abbottabad were well-to-do, prosperous and educated, and they tended mostly to live in urban areas.

One well-known , and still somehow surviving, house in Gurdwara Galli, is the small but quite quaint looking house that once belonged to the lawyer/barrister Madan Mohan, and which used to be called 'Barrister's House'. This house was built in the early 1930s, and was coloured a delightful azure hue.

By some miracle, this house, still coloured a nice blue, continues to survive in Abbottabad today, where most of the old houses and buildings have either been knocked down or are in the process of being knocked down, in the mad quest for 'development' i.e.  modern tasteless but commercially viable construction. Money is the local god now, for the so-called 'Muslims' of Abbottabad town. Nothing else matters.

It's only a matter of time before Barrister Madan Mohan's house also goes the way of other old houses here. It doesnt matter who lives there now, or if it is lying empty- it's on valuable commercial land in the heart of the town and that's that. So, enjoy this sight while you still can.

              View of Barrister Madan Mohan's house, Gurdwara Galli, Abbottabad. By Ilyas Khan, also shared with engineer Mehmood Aslam at 'Environmentalist' online 

Old Sindhi Havelis, Wehar, Sindh

Wehar is a sizable village near the Indus river, some few kilometres from Mohenjo-daro, in Sindh province of Pakistan. At one time, Wehar used to be a bog entrepot or depot, for riverine trade on the Indus, or 'Sindhu' as it is called here.

Most of this trade was carried out between Sindh, Rajasthan and Mewar (Jodhpur), Gujerat Kathiawar, Baluchistan (Kalat state and beyond) and even as far as Afghanistan and Southern Punjab areas of Multan and Bahawalpur, possibly even till Peshawar.

It is interesting that most of this trade was in the hands of local Hindu ''baniyas'' (business caste) from quite ancient times. In the 19th and early 20th centuries AD/CE the most famous of these business families in this place, were the family of Set Tehl Ram (who along with his brother Vidoomal had a big trading company) and the Sangat Rai family. Both these families built palatial red-brick 'havelis' (mansions) here, at which sites they lived and also carried on business.

Now, both havelis are in bad shape, although occupied and lived in by settlers from India, who came here as immigrants in 1947, at Partition. One wonders where the rich 'seths' went? Do they still have families and descendants living somewhere in India, who went there at that same terrible time? These present occupants have tried to maintain the old mansions as they were, although they are falling in places. According to the plates on the mansions, they were built in the 1930s, and with some love and care, can be easily restored to their former glory.

Hari Singh Di Haveli, Katas, District Chakwal, Punjab

(various online sources)

 There is an old Hindu temple complex at Katas, in Chakwal district of Punjab, which may probably date back to at least the 10th c AD/CE.

Katas is a very sacred place for the Hindus. It is located on a hill six kilometers from village Choa Saidan Shah of Chakwal district. The place is mentioned in the 'Mahabharata' and according to Hindu religious belief, both Katas and Paskar (Ajmer) are the eyes of Shiva. Paras Nath Jogi breathed his last here. The Founder of Sikhism Guru Nanak Ji also visited Katas and had set his foot here. This place thus also came to be known as 'Nanaknawas'. It was the abode of contemplation for groups of mystics, ascetics and Jogis etc.

It also has great historical significance because it was the place where the Arab traveler and historian Al-Beruni attempted to measure the circumference of Earth, and where he studied and learnt Sanskrit, and eventually wrote his renowned “Kitab-ul-Hind”. Even today groups of Hindu pilgrims come from India to visit it regularly to worship.

At Katas, is also a small fortified mansion or traditional 'haveli' which goes by the name of 'Hari Singh Nalwa di Haveli' (the Haveli/Mansion of Hari Singh Nalwa). This Hari Singh was a famous Sikh general and administrator who served as governor in Kashmir and Hazara areas during Maharaja Ranjit Singh's time, and one of the bulwarks of the Sikh regime in Punjab. He died in 18 at Jamrud, in the Pashtun tribal areas, and his death was a major set back or blow to Maharaja Ranjit Singh and Sikh power generally.

According to local information, this 'haveli' at Katas, named after Hari Singh, was probably made by this able commander sometime in the 19th century, some 10-12 years prior to his death. He also used to come and visit this holy site and stay here and it is presumed he built it for his own use as well as a sort of garrison to protect this holy site. Not much is known about this place now, local people dont seem to have much knowledge, and the government are equally clueless and disinterested. Despite being a place much-visited by Hindus, the temple complex and this fine old 'haveli' and other old buildings, are falling to rack and ruin.

The last Hindu Havelis of Hyderabad

by Ghulam Rasul (and also some help from online sources)


Hyderabad is the 2nd largest city in the Sindh province of Pakistan. It is the 4th largest city in the country. The city was founded in 1768 by Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro upon the ruins of a small fishing village along the bank of the River Indus.

Formerly the capital of Sindh, it serves as the HQ of the district of Hyderabad. The last battle between the Talpur Amirs of Sindh and the British took place in this city, in 1843, after which the whole region was annexed to colonial rule.

Hyderabad is especially well-known for its two old forts, the ''Pucca Qillo'' (strong fort) and the ''Kacho Qillo'' (weak/fragile fort) and its old bazaars such as Resham Bazaar (Silk Market) and Shahi Bazaar (Royal Market) and others . This fine and historical old city once used to be inhabited by many Hindus, both of the merchants class and also top-caste Brahmins or Pundits (priests); and though some poor Hindus still survive here in a few numbers, most of the wealthy old families left for India, long ago. These folk left behind their lovely old town mansions, the  'havelis' , some of which still stand. Many more have been simply demolished by Pakistanis, to give way to ugly new structures or big commercial plazas. Yet, a few lie empty or occupied illegally by squatters.

By looking at their sad ruins, we can assess their former status and grandeur. Who will ever preserve them? No one, surely, and in a few more years, those of them that are still there, will also be gone. In another decade all of Hyderabad--and Pakistan--will be devoid of this architectural and historical treasure. Another series of victims, to our brutish ways.


1. View, old haveli, Hyderabad

2. View, another old haveli, Hyderabad

Old Sikh and Hindu havelis of Bhera

by Mian Nazeer Ali


Bhera is a city of Sargodha district, Punjab, Pakistan. It lies on River Jhelum. It is an old city, with an ancient
historical past. According to historians, the word Bhera means in ancient Sanskrit language of India and Pakistan ''place without fear''. Before this name, earlier name of this place in BC time was Jobnathnagar, ruled by one Raja Jobnath or Chobnath. Later the name Beda or Bhira/Bhera became commonly adopted. It is not sure but some people of this area claim Alexander the Great and his army also came to this ancient place or near it.

At a later time, it is historically shown, the Chinese traveler and pilgrim Fa Hsien crossed River Jhelum from this same place, probably in 400 AD. Then, afterwards, Bhera was attacked and looted first by Muslim army of Mahmud Ghazni, then Mongol raiders, and in 1519 by Babur founder of Mughal empire of India. In 1540, the Pathan Sher Shah Suri , rebuilt and developed the city. At time of later Mughals, one Raja Salabat Rai or Salamat Rai, ruled Bhera and surrounding areas and even area of Khushab but he was murdered by a treacherous Khattak administrator, but his nephew Fatih Singh Rai, once again recovered the rule of this city. In Sikh times, the city was also expanded by Sikh and Hindu administrators and became a big center and market for agriculture trade (eg grains, vegetables, fruits etc) . At that time, the population was 60% Muslims and 40% Sikhs and Hindus, and the real owners and rich people of this city and surroundings were various Khatri families. They were mostly in business and trade or 'sahu kars' (moneylenders) and some were also landowners .

Some rich Sikhs and Hindu Khatris of Bhera city built a big grain market and also a number of old ''haveli'' (mansion houses) here in main bazaar area and around that area too. For a long time, under Sikh and British rule, these people living in these fine old ''havelis'' controlled Bhera and helped a lot in its proper progress. Schools, hospitals, and other municipal facilities were donated by them for all the people of Bhera, regardless of caste or creed.

But after 1947, the Sikhs and Hindus mostly escaped to India, as there was lots of killing in Punjab at partition, in East side Muslims were massacred and in West Punjab (including Sargodha and Bhera areas) Sikhs, Hindus were massacred without pity. That was the time of start of downfall of this ancient city, as once these benefactors went away, looting and fraud started here, by so-called 'Muslims'. According to Chacha Saifullah, a very old resident in Bhera (born probably in 1926 or 1927) , he saw the time before partition and independence, he was a young man at that time. He praises the Sikhs and Hindu Khatris and 'seths' who did honest and good business and maintained the city in very good and clean order. Their old 'haveli' houses, he says were mostly built at time of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820s or later also. In the whole Sargodha district (called also 'Shahpur' in older times) there were very few Muslim landowners or rich businessmen, maybe 6-7 or so. Rest were all Sikhs and Hindus. However, after 1947, when immigrants came from India 'fraud started here', he says. First, many of these immigrants were lowly people of humble origins but they connived with local 'patwaris' (land and revenue officials)and  showed falsely that they had left big houses and many lands, properties etc, in India, and they got much that dishonest way.

Then, taking their example, many local 'Zamindars' (landowners) also took over lands and properties left by Hindus and the Sikhs, by faking records and claiming ownership. Overnight, a culture of dishonesty became common here, and Bhera city was gradually ruined. New bazaars and plazas sprang up, many fine old 'havelis' were destroyed, and those still left, in a poor way, uncared for and exploited by these Pakistani looters. It is sad to see today the situation of many of these old houses, and of the old city and bazaars. It is all corruption and crookery, and a whole rich history and culture is dying out.

                                    View today of some old Sikh and Hindu 'havelis' at Bhera

Old havelis and structures of Saman Burj, Punjab

by Talal Raza (c/o talalraza.wordpress.com)

Saman Burj is a small suburban town located in the northern end of the Punjabi city of Wazirabad. It is believed to be the place where Jehangir often used to reside with his wife Noor Jehan while travelling to Kashmir. According to Irfanullah Raja, a resident, “It used to be the Royal Serai built during Emperor Jehangir’s time in 1601 AD. While travelling to Kashmir from Lahore every year, Emperor Jehangir and Empress  Noor Jehan used to spend some days here when River Chenab had strong water current.”

Irfanullah also told that Saman Burj was later seized by Charat Singh, grandfather of Maharaja Ranjit Singh when Mughal Empire was in decline , who after renovation added some new structures and started living here. Then his son Mahan Singh occupied it who was the father of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Most present buildings date from late 18 and 19 centuries, except for part of the ruined old building where the Mughals once stayed which is older.

At present, it is interesting to note that neither Sikhs nor Mughals live in Saman Burj. In fact, the present residents claim to be the relatives of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir’s second wife Begum Bai, a Jarral Rajput hailing from Rajauri in Indian Occupied Kashmir. Begum Bai was also the mother of Emperor Shah Alam.

Historians note that Jarral Rajas ruled Kalanaur (a place in Indian Punjab close to Gurdaspur) for 350 years as Hindu Rajas. In 1192, when Shahab-ud-din Ghauri moved in, Jarral Rajas accepted his suzerainty and embraced Islam as well.

In 1194, Jarral Rajas occupied Rajauri (in the Jammu and Kashmir state) and they dwelt here for next 650 years and built a number of forts, mosques, 'sarais' (inns), 'havelis'(mansions) and 'baradaris' (pavilions).

When Mughal empire went into decline, Sikh power under Ranjit Singh was established in parts of Punjab and Kashmir and Rajauri also came under them. Later when the British defeated the Sikhs in the First Anglo-Sikh War, in 1846, they sold Kashmir to Raja Gulab Singh Dogra and the Jarral Rajas were thus forced to leave homes. Thus, dejected, engulfed in sorrow over the loss of the land they had ruled for 6 centuries, these Rajas left Rajauri and moved towards Kangra Valley, Punjab, and then owing to a family dispute one of the members named Raja Fakirullah moved to Wazirabad's Saman Burj after buying land there. It is said that Faikirullah chose to stay in Wazirabad with the hope of eventually returning to Rajauri one day. That is how the Jarral Rajputs moved into Saman Burj in Wazirabad.

The Saman Burj today comprises a number of buildings enclosed by gates and wall. You enter through a wooden sky-blue door in one big gate. Walking on a footpath few furlongs, I soon found myself among the old buildings within.

As I moved around, I was shown the bricks that were used. Explaining the structural and area details, Irfanullah Raja notes that, “It is comprised of approximately 7 acres enclosed by a huge wall with access through two huge gates. There are 'havelis' (mansions) and a Baradari (pavilion) for use as residences and 4 acres of garden lies in the center with walkways to reach the residences. On the northern end of Saman Burj flows a tributary of River Chenab known as Pulkhu.”

I got a chance to see what I was told the oldest structure of Saman Burj. The building had three floors, the basement, the ground floor and the top floor. I roamed around different parts of the building, fascinated by the paintings on the wall but at the same time saddened by the way the glorious art was, in its present state of negligence. From the pillars on which the building rested to the paintings on the wall, everything highlighted an art that is never seen in the construction of houses nowadays. On the top floor was the room where Jehangir and his wife once lived.

While looking at different structures, I came to know that the buildings were constructed differently than the way it’s done today. “Instead of cement, crushed limestone mixed with lentils and cotton was used in the construction. “ However Irfanullah pointed out that owing to a lot of renovations and new constructions even within the house, the originality has been lost. While looking at the faint colored paintings on the wall, architecture being ignored, in wonder I asked Irfanullah, “Who do you blame for this present state ?” He replied, “We blame ourselves for we have ignored it.”

A room at the top floor was full of paintings. The paintings depict pictures of Guru Nanak preaching and Maharaja Ranjit Singh celebrating Holi Festival. Rest of the paintings are of flowers and horsemen.

Whether the government or any other organization should help them in restoring the sites or not, one has to admit that the structures standing in the north of Wazirabad speak for themselves even when they are in shambles. Sites like Saman Burj are not just a bunch of old structures. Each brick on the wall, each grain of the soil and every painting has a story to narrate, has intriguing things to offer to those who love the Indo-Pak subcontinent's history.

               (c) Copyright, Talal Raza 2014, used with thanks--view of an old haveli at Saman Burj

Sawhney Haveli, Nawanshehr

(Blog Report- IHMalik)


Near Abbottabad town, in NWFP (or Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province), Pakistan, is the small hamlet of Nawanshehr. This little hamlet was first inhabited by some aboriginal Hindu Tanolis and Gujjar peoples of ancient Hazara and later by some Punjabi Awan settlers. Till 18th century this was the position.

In the 18th century some Jadoon Pathans defeated the Gujjar, Tanoli and Awan peoples and took over control of Nawanshehr and Dhamtor areas and also the valley of Orash, where Abbottabad town now is located. From 18th century onwards, the main people in this area became Jadoons, however some Tanolis, Awans, Gujjars and other old Hindu people continued to live here, and later also some Sikhs settled here, during Sikh rule of Hazara district, till 1849.

In 1849, the British took over all Punjab from the defeated Sikhs and also Hazara district. The first Britisher DC (Deputy Commissioner/District Collector) was Major James Abbott, and in 1853 he made the town of Abbottabad named after him. This small town continued to grow and became an important town and cantonement military center, home of PIFFER (FF) and also 5 Goorkha Regiments. The British did a lot of development work here and the town bazar and also nearby suburbs grew and developed too, Nawanshehr was also one such area. It passed from just a small Jadoon hamlet, home to some illiterate Pathans, to a medium-sized urban township with many facilities and educated-minded religious class population. The Hindus of Nawanshehr were especially very prosperous and educated and owned most of the town's property, later after 1947 (Independence of Pakistan) most of these properties sadly became taken over by land grabbing 'mafias' and criminals. One such very rare and beautiful property was the old family 'haveli' (mansion) of a famous Hindu Sawhney family.

The Sawhney family were very prominent and famous Hindu Khatris, of Hazara district and very rich and owned almost 1/3rd of Nawanshehr township and also some properties in nearby main Abbottabad town. Original ancestor of Sawhneys was Lala Ram Das, who settled here around 1825 and started a small greocery business, also lending money to Jadoons farmers of the area. One member of this family also had a big coal business supplying the British Army units from Chakwal area of Punjab. Later, the family made a big fortune and a big name, and one Sawhney was late Rai-Bahadur Tirath Ram Shah, MBE, he was head of the Nawanshehr township municipal committee and mayor, and he obtained a big timber business in Hazara area and also other businesses, and was very successful. He was later also made a provincial 'Durbari' by the British Government and given the MBE award, he was one of the top 2-3 Hindu leaders of all Hazara area. Rai-Bahadur made a home in Nawanshehr location but this was probably small as he had a large family and after his death, his son Rai-Bahadur Ishar Das, made a proper and impressive 'haveli' mansion here in probably 1902-1905. This was known far and wide as 'Babu Ishar Das haveli' or 'Sawhney haveli'.

Rai-Bahadur 'Babu' Ishar Das, MA, BA, LLB, was the most famous son of RB Tirath Ram Shah, and the head of Sawhney family in Hazara region. He was a highly educated and learned man, and also a big and sucessful businessman. Indeed, he was the founder and original majority shares owner of the old Premier Sugar Mills, in Mardan, NWFP,  later taken over by local Muslims. He remained Honorary Magistrate,  Honorary Secretary Nawanshehr town committee, and a district and provincial 'Durbari' and received in 1922 the 'Kaiser i Hind' medal for his role in helping to raise funds from this area for the World War 1. Rai-Bahadur Ishar Das was also an enlightened and liberal man and he also helped finance the old ruined Arya Samaj temple in that place and also made contributions to renovating the Arya Samaj mandir (temple) in main Abbottabad town bazar, and surprisingly also for the renovation of Ilyas Masjid (mosque) in Nawanshehr.

Sawhney 'haveli' or 'Ishar Das haveli' was a very beautiful and impressive building at that time, it was the center piece of Nawanshehr and people used to come from many places to visit and see it. It was made in a beautiful and fine manner, with artists and artisans coming from Peshawar and also Kashmir, to do special work in it, in stone and wood.  It was the home of cultured and civilised people.

Yet, what happened to this fine place after Pakistan came into being? Initially, while Babu Isher Das lived, he used to visit Pakistan from India and things werent too bad, but after his death, they sank to abysmal levels. The house fell into a bad state and began to fall apart, no one cared or loved it anymore. It was then taken over by a 'qabza group' and is today the building of a third-rate school 'Orash Public School'. Who us running it? Why does not the NWFP/KP government heritage department look after it? One by one, in Abbottabad, Nawanshehr and environs, all unique old British, Sikh and Hindu properties have fallen victim to greedy people. This trend goes on today without check.

                   Entrance to the Sawhney/Ishar Das haveli in Nawanshehr, near Abbottabad
                   (c) 'Environmentalist'  at Abbottabad Pakistan site, March 2007 , with thanks