Hiraj Mahal, Khanewal, Punjab

The Hiraj are a sub-caste of the Sial Punjabi tribe (variously ranked as either Jatt or Rajput), and a sizable number of them live in Khanewal area of Punjab.

The old and mostly abandoned 'Hiraj Mahal' belongs to the leading (head) family of the Hiraj clan of Chowki Hiraj village, and was completed in the 1920s, on the orders of the chief at that time, who was a great loyalist of the British Raj in the Punjab. It is claimed as per the family legend that the 'mahal' (palace) was built exclusively to host the (then) Lt-Governor of the Punjab, on his visit to the area. However, other sources claim that it was made for more general use by the Hiraj chiefs, who wished to make this their main seat but later, they simply converted it into their family 'guest house' to host any visiting VIPs to the area.

After 1947, partition and independence of Pakistan, the mahal remained abandoned for long, and in the 1970s it was badly damaged by flood water from the Ravi river.

Now, the Hiraj family is renovating this old building, with its interesting historical colonial heritage. It is encouraging that at least one old Punjabi feudal family is evincing such a positive attitude.

                                        Hiraj Mahal, Khanewal 

Lockhart House, Abbottabad

by M Ilyas

Some months ago, a petition appeared online at www.change.org, to 'Save Lockhart House, in Abbottabad, Pakistan''.  This petition, addressed to the DC Abbottabad, further stated that:

''Save Lockhart House .This was the home of Gen Sir William Lockhart (1841-1900) built and completed around 1880 and now marked for demolition by the Cantt Board and Military Estate Office, in Abbottabad town. You can help to secure a permanent future for this fine historic structure. Lockhart House is a vital part of Abbottabad's colonial heritage which is being rapidly lost by blind, unplanned development, that does not take into account the preservation of the past.''

It is not known what was the final outcome of this petition, as some people from Pakistan, UK, Australia and Canada, also petitioned the Commandant PMA (Pakistan Military Academy) and the Abbottabad Station Commandant (Military), and for the time being it seems that the plan to demolish this old heritage building, has been postponed.

Gen Lockhart was a British soldier who served for long years on the North-West Frontier and retired after becoming Commander-in-Chief of the British Indian Army, he was very fond of Abbottabad town and he and his family decided to build a house there. This house was probably made in the 1880-1890 period (completed) and the Lockhart family used to live here regularly. Very interesting fact, that they also built another annex or cottage nearby, which they used to house guests, and today, this also ruined building is called 'Kipling House' by local people, due to the fact that John Lockwood Kipling, manager of the Mayo College of Arts (now NCA) in Lahore, and father of famed writer Rudyard Kipling, used to come and stay here during the 1880s and 1890s. He was a great personal friend of Gen Lockhart. Some people also believe that JL Kipling's family also stayed here with him one or two summers, including Rudyard Kipling, but there is no proper historical evidence of this. In fact, its most likely, that both Lockhart House and the additional house, were completed after Rudyard had left India permanently, for England.

Later on, after 1947, both Lockhart House (main) and so-called 'Kipling House' became part of Federal Government (FG) School in Abbottabad, classes used to be held here, and these buildings are still on campus of this institution, although not in use anymore due to bad condition.

Staff of the FG College dont know whats in store for these buildings, especially the historic and splendid looking Lockhart House, which was the loved home once of a former C-in-C of the Army and his family. This building also has great tourist potential, it can be saved and developed either as a museum or heritage place. Maybe the present Chief of Army Staff (Pakistan Army) might take a personal interest, to salvage this home of a predecessor, for the sake of future? That would be a good thing to do.

 
                                 Lockhart House, Abbottabad, Pakistan 

Old havelis and structures of Saman Burj, Punjab

by Talal Raza (c/o talalraza.wordpress.com)

Saman Burj is a small suburban town located in the northern end of the Punjabi city of Wazirabad. It is believed to be the place where Jehangir often used to reside with his wife Noor Jehan while travelling to Kashmir. According to Irfanullah Raja, a resident, “It used to be the Royal Serai built during Emperor Jehangir’s time in 1601 AD. While travelling to Kashmir from Lahore every year, Emperor Jehangir and Empress  Noor Jehan used to spend some days here when River Chenab had strong water current.”

Irfanullah also told that Saman Burj was later seized by Charat Singh, grandfather of Maharaja Ranjit Singh when Mughal Empire was in decline , who after renovation added some new structures and started living here. Then his son Mahan Singh occupied it who was the father of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Most present buildings date from late 18 and 19 centuries, except for part of the ruined old building where the Mughals once stayed which is older.

At present, it is interesting to note that neither Sikhs nor Mughals live in Saman Burj. In fact, the present residents claim to be the relatives of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir’s second wife Begum Bai, a Jarral Rajput hailing from Rajauri in Indian Occupied Kashmir. Begum Bai was also the mother of Emperor Shah Alam.

Historians note that Jarral Rajas ruled Kalanaur (a place in Indian Punjab close to Gurdaspur) for 350 years as Hindu Rajas. In 1192, when Shahab-ud-din Ghauri moved in, Jarral Rajas accepted his suzerainty and embraced Islam as well.

In 1194, Jarral Rajas occupied Rajauri (in the Jammu and Kashmir state) and they dwelt here for next 650 years and built a number of forts, mosques, 'sarais' (inns), 'havelis'(mansions) and 'baradaris' (pavilions).

When Mughal empire went into decline, Sikh power under Ranjit Singh was established in parts of Punjab and Kashmir and Rajauri also came under them. Later when the British defeated the Sikhs in the First Anglo-Sikh War, in 1846, they sold Kashmir to Raja Gulab Singh Dogra and the Jarral Rajas were thus forced to leave homes. Thus, dejected, engulfed in sorrow over the loss of the land they had ruled for 6 centuries, these Rajas left Rajauri and moved towards Kangra Valley, Punjab, and then owing to a family dispute one of the members named Raja Fakirullah moved to Wazirabad's Saman Burj after buying land there. It is said that Faikirullah chose to stay in Wazirabad with the hope of eventually returning to Rajauri one day. That is how the Jarral Rajputs moved into Saman Burj in Wazirabad.

The Saman Burj today comprises a number of buildings enclosed by gates and wall. You enter through a wooden sky-blue door in one big gate. Walking on a footpath few furlongs, I soon found myself among the old buildings within.

As I moved around, I was shown the bricks that were used. Explaining the structural and area details, Irfanullah Raja notes that, “It is comprised of approximately 7 acres enclosed by a huge wall with access through two huge gates. There are 'havelis' (mansions) and a Baradari (pavilion) for use as residences and 4 acres of garden lies in the center with walkways to reach the residences. On the northern end of Saman Burj flows a tributary of River Chenab known as Pulkhu.”

I got a chance to see what I was told the oldest structure of Saman Burj. The building had three floors, the basement, the ground floor and the top floor. I roamed around different parts of the building, fascinated by the paintings on the wall but at the same time saddened by the way the glorious art was, in its present state of negligence. From the pillars on which the building rested to the paintings on the wall, everything highlighted an art that is never seen in the construction of houses nowadays. On the top floor was the room where Jehangir and his wife once lived.

While looking at different structures, I came to know that the buildings were constructed differently than the way it’s done today. “Instead of cement, crushed limestone mixed with lentils and cotton was used in the construction. “ However Irfanullah pointed out that owing to a lot of renovations and new constructions even within the house, the originality has been lost. While looking at the faint colored paintings on the wall, architecture being ignored, in wonder I asked Irfanullah, “Who do you blame for this present state ?” He replied, “We blame ourselves for we have ignored it.”

A room at the top floor was full of paintings. The paintings depict pictures of Guru Nanak preaching and Maharaja Ranjit Singh celebrating Holi Festival. Rest of the paintings are of flowers and horsemen.

Whether the government or any other organization should help them in restoring the sites or not, one has to admit that the structures standing in the north of Wazirabad speak for themselves even when they are in shambles. Sites like Saman Burj are not just a bunch of old structures. Each brick on the wall, each grain of the soil and every painting has a story to narrate, has intriguing things to offer to those who love the Indo-Pak subcontinent's history.

               (c) Copyright, Talal Raza 2014, used with thanks--view of an old haveli at Saman Burj

Abbott House, at Abbottabad (supposed)

by Waheed-ud-din Khan

Abbottabad town in Hazara, NWFP/KPK, Pakistan, is a historical town dating from British colonial days. It was founded in January 1853 by Major James Abbott (born 1807-died 1896) who was first British Deputy Commissioner of the region. Today, Abbottabad is a big and flourishing town, with many benefits and problems, at the same time.

When Abbottabad town was first conceived by Major Abbott, he wished to set up a small cantonment type military garrison town with a small bazar and other facilities, in a cool and pleasing climate, so he chose the present town site. At the time when the contructions of the town first began, Abbott also made a small hill bungalow or cottage for himself, here. When this bungalow or cottage was completed, in January-February 1853, Abbott himself was not able to enjoy if for long, as he was posted to Bengal in April 1853 and had to bid farewell (in his famous poem) to the town he made.

This small 'Abbott Cottage' was in fact still in reasonable living condition in 1880s, and in an old record album preserved by the family of Major Fenton of Sikh Regiment, we can see a view of it (see below 1). According to the old Hazara District Gazetteer of 1883, as well as later editions, this cottage or house was built by Major Abbott somewhere near or upon Shimla Hill at the back of the Abbottabad cantonment (not to be confused with Simla in India) and it is not known who was occupying it then. This cottage or house was like many similar such houses built at that time in the 19th century, at Abbottabad.

However, quite later on, around the 1920s, a rather different type of house, bigger and more ornate, was shown and identified as 'Abbott House', situated close to the base of Shimla Hill, Abbottabad Cantonment--what was this? Was this in fact the same place and same house or cottage, expanded by some later occupant? The recent photo of the second so-called 'Abbott House' is also given below (See No 2). The surroundings dont seem to be the same and, certainly, the house is very different.

Some old residents of Abbottabad town who still remember anything, say that yes, this was the site where Abbott's actual small bungalow or cottage had once stood; and this had later been taken by some rich Sikhs, who lived here before 1947 and developed the property and expanded the house, adding new blocks and rooms and designs, inside and outside, over time. Some historians also agree with this, they say that the present house or building doesnt seem to be older than 1920s.

However, there are also some people in Abbottabad, including the local MEO (Military Estate Office) and the present owners (Muslims) of this property, who insist this is 'the exact same Abbott House' which was built for himself by James Abbott some one hundred sixty years ago. They dont have any real evidence but who can say for sure? Both the arguments still exist and continue. The smaller, earlier house is today nowhere else to be seen in Abbottabad.

In any case, the supposed 'Abbott House' that we know, today, is also not in very good condition. It was damaged by fire and earthquakes and is in rather shabby and fragile condition. If this is really the old and real 'Abbott House' then the Abbottabad District Government must take steps to save this place as a heritage site. They have recently set up the Abbott Museum in the old town hall down in the bazar, but it may be better to relocate that museum to this place, on one side. There are a number of old buildings in Abbottabad from British times, which should be declared 'heritage sites' and preserved for posterity, as tourist attractions.


1. Original 'Abbot House'

2. Today's supposed 'Abbott House'

Bedi Mahal, Rawalpindi, Punjab, Pakistan

by Muhammad Imran Satti

Near Rawalpindi, is the town of Kallar Syedan, where is located the old 'Bedi Mahal' (Bedi palace) which was built by Baba Khem Singh Bedi, a famous Sikh notable of the region, in around 1890s. Before this, at this same site, there used to be an older Sikh fort, which was there since 1818-1820.

Baba Sir Khem Singh Bedi one of the founders of the Singh Sabha movement, was born on 21 February 1832 at Kallar Syedan. He was a direct descendant, in the thirteenth place, of Guru Nanak. He received the rites of 'amrit' at the hands of the celebrated Baba Bir Singh of Naurangabad. His father Baba Attar Singh was killed in a family feud on 25 November 1839. Khem Singh and his elder brother Sampuran Singh inherited jagirs in the Jullandar Doab and in Deepalpur tahsil of Gujera,Montgomery (Sahiwal), district.

On the annexation of the Punjab to the British dominions in 1849, some of these jagir villages were resumed by the new government. During the uprising of 1857, Baba Khem Singh assisted the British in quelling a local revolt in Gujera district.

He personally took part in a number of skirmishes, proving himself an excellent marksman with gun and rifle.
While accompanying Extra Assistant Commissioner Berkeley i an effort to reopen communications with Multan, Khem Singh distinguished himself in a cavalry charge on 21 September 1857. The following day he barely escaped death in an ambush in which Berkeley was killed. The Government of India bestowed on him a 'khillat' or robe of honour of the value of 1,000 rupees and a double barrelled rifle.

His jagirs were also enhanced from time to time and, towards the end of his life, his possessions in land in Montgomery district alone amounted to 28,272 acres. He was appointed a magistrate in 1877 and an honorary munsif in 1878. He was made Companion of the Indian Empire (C.I.E.) in 1879, was nominated to the Viceroy's Legislative Council in 1893, and when the Indian Council Act was extended to the Punjab in 1897, he was among the first non-official members nominated to the Punjab legislature. He was knighted in 1898 (K.C.I.E). He died in 1903.

Bedi palace is one of the finest examples of local style construction, in the Potohar region of Punjab. Sadly, after Partition and Indepedence of Pakistan in 1947, this beautiful treasure has been long neglected. Initially it was in use as a school but that too was abandoned and it is now a building in ruins, and needs to be saved as part of the Pakistani especially Punjabi, cultural heritage.



Further reading : http://sikhfoundation.org/article-lostPalace.html

                                  Bedi Mahal, in its present ruinous state.