Saturday 8 November 2014

Old Sikh and Hindu havelis of Bhera

by Mian Nazeer Ali


Bhera is a city of Sargodha district, Punjab, Pakistan. It lies on River Jhelum. It is an old city, with an ancient
historical past. According to historians, the word Bhera means in ancient Sanskrit language of India and Pakistan ''place without fear''. Before this name, earlier name of this place in BC time was Jobnathnagar, ruled by one Raja Jobnath or Chobnath. Later the name Beda or Bhira/Bhera became commonly adopted. It is not sure but some people of this area claim Alexander the Great and his army also came to this ancient place or near it.

At a later time, it is historically shown, the Chinese traveler and pilgrim Fa Hsien crossed River Jhelum from this same place, probably in 400 AD. Then, afterwards, Bhera was attacked and looted first by Muslim army of Mahmud Ghazni, then Mongol raiders, and in 1519 by Babur founder of Mughal empire of India. In 1540, the Pathan Sher Shah Suri , rebuilt and developed the city. At time of later Mughals, one Raja Salabat Rai or Salamat Rai, ruled Bhera and surrounding areas and even area of Khushab but he was murdered by a treacherous Khattak administrator, but his nephew Fatih Singh Rai, once again recovered the rule of this city. In Sikh times, the city was also expanded by Sikh and Hindu administrators and became a big center and market for agriculture trade (eg grains, vegetables, fruits etc) . At that time, the population was 60% Muslims and 40% Sikhs and Hindus, and the real owners and rich people of this city and surroundings were various Khatri families. They were mostly in business and trade or 'sahu kars' (moneylenders) and some were also landowners .

Some rich Sikhs and Hindu Khatris of Bhera city built a big grain market and also a number of old ''haveli'' (mansion houses) here in main bazaar area and around that area too. For a long time, under Sikh and British rule, these people living in these fine old ''havelis'' controlled Bhera and helped a lot in its proper progress. Schools, hospitals, and other municipal facilities were donated by them for all the people of Bhera, regardless of caste or creed.

But after 1947, the Sikhs and Hindus mostly escaped to India, as there was lots of killing in Punjab at partition, in East side Muslims were massacred and in West Punjab (including Sargodha and Bhera areas) Sikhs, Hindus were massacred without pity. That was the time of start of downfall of this ancient city, as once these benefactors went away, looting and fraud started here, by so-called 'Muslims'. According to Chacha Saifullah, a very old resident in Bhera (born probably in 1926 or 1927) , he saw the time before partition and independence, he was a young man at that time. He praises the Sikhs and Hindu Khatris and 'seths' who did honest and good business and maintained the city in very good and clean order. Their old 'haveli' houses, he says were mostly built at time of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820s or later also. In the whole Sargodha district (called also 'Shahpur' in older times) there were very few Muslim landowners or rich businessmen, maybe 6-7 or so. Rest were all Sikhs and Hindus. However, after 1947, when immigrants came from India 'fraud started here', he says. First, many of these immigrants were lowly people of humble origins but they connived with local 'patwaris' (land and revenue officials)and  showed falsely that they had left big houses and many lands, properties etc, in India, and they got much that dishonest way.

Then, taking their example, many local 'Zamindars' (landowners) also took over lands and properties left by Hindus and the Sikhs, by faking records and claiming ownership. Overnight, a culture of dishonesty became common here, and Bhera city was gradually ruined. New bazaars and plazas sprang up, many fine old 'havelis' were destroyed, and those still left, in a poor way, uncared for and exploited by these Pakistani looters. It is sad to see today the situation of many of these old houses, and of the old city and bazaars. It is all corruption and crookery, and a whole rich history and culture is dying out.




                                    View today of some old Sikh and Hindu 'havelis' at Bhera

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