Barood Khana haveli, Old Lahore

by Muhammad Ali Khwaja (also some online sources)


The Heera Mandi (Diamond Market), also called Shahi Mohallah (Royal Neighborhood), is a famous red-light/prostitution district of the old Taxali Gate of Lahore, Pakistan.

The Heera Mandi was first called the 'Shahi Mohallah' or Royal Neighborhood in the 17th century. It was called that because many princes and nobles of the Mughal dynasty used to come there. At that time there were only 'Tawaifs' (dancing girls) and courtesans there. They were there to amuse the elite people. During the rule of the Sikh king Ranjit Singh, sexual prostitution also became common.Many brothels were opened there. Ranjit Singh renamed this place 'Heera Mandi'. It was named for an officer, Heera Singh, who lived there. Some historians think that he named it for the beautiful girls (prostitutes) who lived there. They were like precious diamonds.

When the British Raj came to power in this region, Christian missionaries asked for the Heera Mandi to be moved away. They thought the activities there were 'sinful'. The British government tried to move it, but they were forced to move it back because people did not like this idea. Later, after the 1870s, the British also added some special brothels there for British soldiers only. This area was made famous in Rudyard Kipling's novel 'Kim' (printed in 1901).

Near this famed Heera Mandi in Lahore, stands the famous 'Barood Khana haveli' (arsenal mansion), built some 230 years ago for a general of the Sikh army of Ranjit Singh--reputedly, an artillery general who used to keep his lethal arsenal here!  It is now owned by a family of Kashmiri origins, which has produced some known people of Lahore such as late Mian Amiruddin, who used to be Lord Mayor of Lahore city; and Mian Aminuddin, an ex-Governor of the Punjab province, and Mian Yusuf Salahuddin, the present owner of this old 'haveli', who is a socialite and party-giver. Many famous and renowned politicians, civil and military officers, and foreigners, come each year to this 'haveli' to enjoy the hospitality especially during the festival of 'Basant' (traditional spring kite-flying). It is a well-tended building and lived in by Mian Yusuf. It is a lively place, day and night, and a far cry from its 'explosive' origins. . .

The last Hindu Havelis of Hyderabad

by Ghulam Rasul (and also some help from online sources)


Hyderabad is the 2nd largest city in the Sindh province of Pakistan. It is the 4th largest city in the country. The city was founded in 1768 by Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro upon the ruins of a small fishing village along the bank of the River Indus.

Formerly the capital of Sindh, it serves as the HQ of the district of Hyderabad. The last battle between the Talpur Amirs of Sindh and the British took place in this city, in 1843, after which the whole region was annexed to colonial rule.

Hyderabad is especially well-known for its two old forts, the ''Pucca Qillo'' (strong fort) and the ''Kacho Qillo'' (weak/fragile fort) and its old bazaars such as Resham Bazaar (Silk Market) and Shahi Bazaar (Royal Market) and others . This fine and historical old city once used to be inhabited by many Hindus, both of the merchants class and also top-caste Brahmins or Pundits (priests); and though some poor Hindus still survive here in a few numbers, most of the wealthy old families left for India, long ago. These folk left behind their lovely old town mansions, the  'havelis' , some of which still stand. Many more have been simply demolished by Pakistanis, to give way to ugly new structures or big commercial plazas. Yet, a few lie empty or occupied illegally by squatters.

By looking at their sad ruins, we can assess their former status and grandeur. Who will ever preserve them? No one, surely, and in a few more years, those of them that are still there, will also be gone. In another decade all of Hyderabad--and Pakistan--will be devoid of this architectural and historical treasure. Another series of victims, to our brutish ways.


1. View, old haveli, Hyderabad

2. View, another old haveli, Hyderabad

Old Sikh and Hindu havelis of Bhera

by Mian Nazeer Ali


Bhera is a city of Sargodha district, Punjab, Pakistan. It lies on River Jhelum. It is an old city, with an ancient
historical past. According to historians, the word Bhera means in ancient Sanskrit language of India and Pakistan ''place without fear''. Before this name, earlier name of this place in BC time was Jobnathnagar, ruled by one Raja Jobnath or Chobnath. Later the name Beda or Bhira/Bhera became commonly adopted. It is not sure but some people of this area claim Alexander the Great and his army also came to this ancient place or near it.

At a later time, it is historically shown, the Chinese traveler and pilgrim Fa Hsien crossed River Jhelum from this same place, probably in 400 AD. Then, afterwards, Bhera was attacked and looted first by Muslim army of Mahmud Ghazni, then Mongol raiders, and in 1519 by Babur founder of Mughal empire of India. In 1540, the Pathan Sher Shah Suri , rebuilt and developed the city. At time of later Mughals, one Raja Salabat Rai or Salamat Rai, ruled Bhera and surrounding areas and even area of Khushab but he was murdered by a treacherous Khattak administrator, but his nephew Fatih Singh Rai, once again recovered the rule of this city. In Sikh times, the city was also expanded by Sikh and Hindu administrators and became a big center and market for agriculture trade (eg grains, vegetables, fruits etc) . At that time, the population was 60% Muslims and 40% Sikhs and Hindus, and the real owners and rich people of this city and surroundings were various Khatri families. They were mostly in business and trade or 'sahu kars' (moneylenders) and some were also landowners .

Some rich Sikhs and Hindu Khatris of Bhera city built a big grain market and also a number of old ''haveli'' (mansion houses) here in main bazaar area and around that area too. For a long time, under Sikh and British rule, these people living in these fine old ''havelis'' controlled Bhera and helped a lot in its proper progress. Schools, hospitals, and other municipal facilities were donated by them for all the people of Bhera, regardless of caste or creed.

But after 1947, the Sikhs and Hindus mostly escaped to India, as there was lots of killing in Punjab at partition, in East side Muslims were massacred and in West Punjab (including Sargodha and Bhera areas) Sikhs, Hindus were massacred without pity. That was the time of start of downfall of this ancient city, as once these benefactors went away, looting and fraud started here, by so-called 'Muslims'. According to Chacha Saifullah, a very old resident in Bhera (born probably in 1926 or 1927) , he saw the time before partition and independence, he was a young man at that time. He praises the Sikhs and Hindu Khatris and 'seths' who did honest and good business and maintained the city in very good and clean order. Their old 'haveli' houses, he says were mostly built at time of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820s or later also. In the whole Sargodha district (called also 'Shahpur' in older times) there were very few Muslim landowners or rich businessmen, maybe 6-7 or so. Rest were all Sikhs and Hindus. However, after 1947, when immigrants came from India 'fraud started here', he says. First, many of these immigrants were lowly people of humble origins but they connived with local 'patwaris' (land and revenue officials)and  showed falsely that they had left big houses and many lands, properties etc, in India, and they got much that dishonest way.

Then, taking their example, many local 'Zamindars' (landowners) also took over lands and properties left by Hindus and the Sikhs, by faking records and claiming ownership. Overnight, a culture of dishonesty became common here, and Bhera city was gradually ruined. New bazaars and plazas sprang up, many fine old 'havelis' were destroyed, and those still left, in a poor way, uncared for and exploited by these Pakistani looters. It is sad to see today the situation of many of these old houses, and of the old city and bazaars. It is all corruption and crookery, and a whole rich history and culture is dying out.

                                    View today of some old Sikh and Hindu 'havelis' at Bhera

Sethi House(s) in Sethi Mohallah, Peshawar

by Ms Tasneem Ahmad (and also some material online)

Sethi 'Mohallah' is a street or neighborhood in the heart of the old walled city of Peshawar, Pakistan. The Mohallah contains seven houses (including main Sethi House a cultural heritage building) built by the Sethis. These unique houses are a blend of the art and architecture of Gandhara and Central Asia, are rare architectural masterpieces located in the walled city.The first was built by Haji Ahmed Gul Sethi in 1882.

The Sethis were traders/businessmen who had businesses in China, India, Afghanistan, Iran and Central Asia, with trade centres at Kabul, Mazar-i-Sharif, Tashkent, Bukhara, Samarkand and other cities in the Asian region.

The downfall of the Sethis began during the Russian Revolution in 1917, when their businesses experienced setbacks from which they never recovered, forcing them to leave Central Asia and return to Peshawar.

The Sethi homes in Peshawar were designed with inspiration from the vernacular architecture of Bukhara. Two neatly decorated tehkhanas (basement rooms), a balakhana (upper storey), dalaans (big halls), chinikhanas (rooms where decoration and art pieces are displayed on chimneypieces) and fountains can be found in each house. The ceilings are painted and the walls are decorated with mirror work. One of the houses has been purchased by the NWFP Government, this house has two portions, one for men and one for women. The overall structure is a combination of brick and woodwork embellished with carved wooden doors and balconies. Painted and mirrored atriums provide fresh air and attractive views, while the main entrances are made of superbly carved wood.

It has 12 rooms and four basements and includes a fountain. Colourful glass ceilings with geometrical designs, woodwork with engravings of various splendid designs on walls, a big resting place, made of wood and called Takht-e-Sulaimani, to take sunshine in winter, beautiful ventilators, slanting window-shades, wooden wall cupboards, chimneys and red bricks stairs with projected wooden frames are some of the prominent features of the house.

                                       View, Sethi street/mohallah, Peshawar old city