Monday 10 November 2014

The last Hindu Havelis of Hyderabad

by Ghulam Rasul (and also some help from online sources)


Hyderabad is the 2nd largest city in the Sindh province of Pakistan. It is the 4th largest city in the country. The city was founded in 1768 by Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro upon the ruins of a small fishing village along the bank of the River Indus.

Formerly the capital of Sindh, it serves as the HQ of the district of Hyderabad. The last battle between the Talpur Amirs of Sindh and the British took place in this city, in 1843, after which the whole region was annexed to colonial rule.

Hyderabad is especially well-known for its two old forts, the ''Pucca Qillo'' (strong fort) and the ''Kacho Qillo'' (weak/fragile fort) and its old bazaars such as Resham Bazaar (Silk Market) and Shahi Bazaar (Royal Market) and others . This fine and historical old city once used to be inhabited by many Hindus, both of the merchants class and also top-caste Brahmins or Pundits (priests); and though some poor Hindus still survive here in a few numbers, most of the wealthy old families left for India, long ago. These folk left behind their lovely old town mansions, the  'havelis' , some of which still stand. Many more have been simply demolished by Pakistanis, to give way to ugly new structures or big commercial plazas. Yet, a few lie empty or occupied illegally by squatters.

By looking at their sad ruins, we can assess their former status and grandeur. Who will ever preserve them? No one, surely, and in a few more years, those of them that are still there, will also be gone. In another decade all of Hyderabad--and Pakistan--will be devoid of this architectural and historical treasure. Another series of victims, to our brutish ways.


1. View, old haveli, Hyderabad

2. View, another old haveli, Hyderabad

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