Hiraj Mahal, Khanewal, Punjab

The Hiraj are a sub-caste of the Sial Punjabi tribe (variously ranked as either Jatt or Rajput), and a sizable number of them live in Khanewal area of Punjab.

The old and mostly abandoned 'Hiraj Mahal' belongs to the leading (head) family of the Hiraj clan of Chowki Hiraj village, and was completed in the 1920s, on the orders of the chief at that time, who was a great loyalist of the British Raj in the Punjab. It is claimed as per the family legend that the 'mahal' (palace) was built exclusively to host the (then) Lt-Governor of the Punjab, on his visit to the area. However, other sources claim that it was made for more general use by the Hiraj chiefs, who wished to make this their main seat but later, they simply converted it into their family 'guest house' to host any visiting VIPs to the area.

After 1947, partition and independence of Pakistan, the mahal remained abandoned for long, and in the 1970s it was badly damaged by flood water from the Ravi river.

Now, the Hiraj family is renovating this old building, with its interesting historical colonial heritage. It is encouraging that at least one old Punjabi feudal family is evincing such a positive attitude.

                                        Hiraj Mahal, Khanewal 

Hari Singh Di Haveli, Katas, District Chakwal, Punjab

(various online sources)

 There is an old Hindu temple complex at Katas, in Chakwal district of Punjab, which may probably date back to at least the 10th c AD/CE.

Katas is a very sacred place for the Hindus. It is located on a hill six kilometers from village Choa Saidan Shah of Chakwal district. The place is mentioned in the 'Mahabharata' and according to Hindu religious belief, both Katas and Paskar (Ajmer) are the eyes of Shiva. Paras Nath Jogi breathed his last here. The Founder of Sikhism Guru Nanak Ji also visited Katas and had set his foot here. This place thus also came to be known as 'Nanaknawas'. It was the abode of contemplation for groups of mystics, ascetics and Jogis etc.

It also has great historical significance because it was the place where the Arab traveler and historian Al-Beruni attempted to measure the circumference of Earth, and where he studied and learnt Sanskrit, and eventually wrote his renowned “Kitab-ul-Hind”. Even today groups of Hindu pilgrims come from India to visit it regularly to worship.

At Katas, is also a small fortified mansion or traditional 'haveli' which goes by the name of 'Hari Singh Nalwa di Haveli' (the Haveli/Mansion of Hari Singh Nalwa). This Hari Singh was a famous Sikh general and administrator who served as governor in Kashmir and Hazara areas during Maharaja Ranjit Singh's time, and one of the bulwarks of the Sikh regime in Punjab. He died in 18 at Jamrud, in the Pashtun tribal areas, and his death was a major set back or blow to Maharaja Ranjit Singh and Sikh power generally.

According to local information, this 'haveli' at Katas, named after Hari Singh, was probably made by this able commander sometime in the 19th century, some 10-12 years prior to his death. He also used to come and visit this holy site and stay here and it is presumed he built it for his own use as well as a sort of garrison to protect this holy site. Not much is known about this place now, local people dont seem to have much knowledge, and the government are equally clueless and disinterested. Despite being a place much-visited by Hindus, the temple complex and this fine old 'haveli' and other old buildings, are falling to rack and ruin.

Haveli and Dera, Maharvi Chishtiyya Sufi family, Mahar Sharif

by Ahmad Fareed Chishti


Mahar Sharif is a village in Chistian tehsil of Bawahalnagar, Punjab, Pakistan. It is the seat of a well-known family of Sufis of the Chishtiyya Order, and also has some shrines of the elder sages of this line. Most famous of these is the shrine of Hazrat Shaykh Qibla - Alam Noor Muhammad Maharvi (RA).

There are also a haveli and a 'dera' (private guest room/salon)  in this place. The haveli was built by Hazrat Khawaja Mahmood Buksh Maharvi in 1940 and the older 'dera' was built probably in 1890s or 1900 by Hazrat Khawaja Noor Jehania Maharvi. Both were former 'sajadanasheens' (descendants) of Hazrat Shaykh Qibla-i- Alam (R.A). Now this place is under the custody of Sahibzada Ghulam Mahmood Maharvi and the sons of Sahibzada Ghulam Masood (Sahibzada Muhammad Amin Mahmood and Sahibzada Muhammad Moeenuddin Mahmood Maharvi) . The buildings still retain some of their former look and have some fine work to be seen, inside and out.

                                     Mahar Sharif, haveli and dera, Online Sources 2014 

Barood Khana haveli, Old Lahore

by Muhammad Ali Khwaja (also some online sources)


The Heera Mandi (Diamond Market), also called Shahi Mohallah (Royal Neighborhood), is a famous red-light/prostitution district of the old Taxali Gate of Lahore, Pakistan.

The Heera Mandi was first called the 'Shahi Mohallah' or Royal Neighborhood in the 17th century. It was called that because many princes and nobles of the Mughal dynasty used to come there. At that time there were only 'Tawaifs' (dancing girls) and courtesans there. They were there to amuse the elite people. During the rule of the Sikh king Ranjit Singh, sexual prostitution also became common.Many brothels were opened there. Ranjit Singh renamed this place 'Heera Mandi'. It was named for an officer, Heera Singh, who lived there. Some historians think that he named it for the beautiful girls (prostitutes) who lived there. They were like precious diamonds.

When the British Raj came to power in this region, Christian missionaries asked for the Heera Mandi to be moved away. They thought the activities there were 'sinful'. The British government tried to move it, but they were forced to move it back because people did not like this idea. Later, after the 1870s, the British also added some special brothels there for British soldiers only. This area was made famous in Rudyard Kipling's novel 'Kim' (printed in 1901).

Near this famed Heera Mandi in Lahore, stands the famous 'Barood Khana haveli' (arsenal mansion), built some 230 years ago for a general of the Sikh army of Ranjit Singh--reputedly, an artillery general who used to keep his lethal arsenal here!  It is now owned by a family of Kashmiri origins, which has produced some known people of Lahore such as late Mian Amiruddin, who used to be Lord Mayor of Lahore city; and Mian Aminuddin, an ex-Governor of the Punjab province, and Mian Yusuf Salahuddin, the present owner of this old 'haveli', who is a socialite and party-giver. Many famous and renowned politicians, civil and military officers, and foreigners, come each year to this 'haveli' to enjoy the hospitality especially during the festival of 'Basant' (traditional spring kite-flying). It is a well-tended building and lived in by Mian Yusuf. It is a lively place, day and night, and a far cry from its 'explosive' origins. . .

Remnants of the past-Haripur old town

by Sufiyan Baig

Haripur (meaning 'town of Hari') is an old town, in Hazara region of North-West Frontier Province (some call it KP now) of Pakistan. The town was founded in 1822 , along with the famous 'Harkishangarh Fort' by the able and strong Sikh general Hari Singh Nalwa. Nalwa had been appointed to control and bring order to the turbulent Hazara region, by order of the Sikh Darbar (court) of Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore.

By establishing a strong fort and garrison at this location in lower Hazara, and by setting up a rich and prosperous market town (mostly famous for its grain, fruits and vegetables) Nalwa was eventually not only able to control this area but also monitor and check activities in upper Hazara, and to pacify most of this region. In this process, he also gave Hazara a valuable new town, which went on to become its capital and remain thus, until 1853 when after British annexation (1849) Major James Abbott shifted the seat of local administration up to the new Abbottabad town founded by him.

Haripur used to have a number of old bazaars and 'mohallas' (neighborhoods) around the massive Harkishangarh Fort,  with their mosques, temples, Sikh 'gurdwaras' and so on. Most of these were, sadly, over the years since 1947 (Partition of British India and Independence of Pakistan) , were slowly destroyed to be replaced by new shopping markets of modern outlook. Some buildings and old sites from that time are surviving but in poor condition. Many of these are occupied illegally by 'qabza groups' (land-grabbing gangs) or forcefully taken over by supporters of big political persons and parties. So, by and large, nothing much now survives of the rich and beautiful past of Haripur. Only, here and there, we can see glimpses of that lost glory, in some 'haveli' which is gradually falling down; or in a doorway or arch or such structure, telling us some story of by-gone days-- for how long, I wonder.

It's no doubt a good idea to try to record and preserve at least what is left by photos and these accounts, since we can't save these sites themselves. Our federal and provincial governments have time and money for expensive foreign tours, for special allowances and perks for MNAs and MPs, for all sorts of wasteful expenditure, like the recent bakery bill of NWFP (KP) Chief Minister of Rs 4-5 lakhs (400, 000 or 500, 000 rupees) . Why worry about falling old buildings and temples, when you can have delicious cakes and pastries?

         Surviving doorway of an old and partially destroyed 'haveli' building 

The last Hindu Havelis of Hyderabad

by Ghulam Rasul (and also some help from online sources)


Hyderabad is the 2nd largest city in the Sindh province of Pakistan. It is the 4th largest city in the country. The city was founded in 1768 by Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro upon the ruins of a small fishing village along the bank of the River Indus.

Formerly the capital of Sindh, it serves as the HQ of the district of Hyderabad. The last battle between the Talpur Amirs of Sindh and the British took place in this city, in 1843, after which the whole region was annexed to colonial rule.

Hyderabad is especially well-known for its two old forts, the ''Pucca Qillo'' (strong fort) and the ''Kacho Qillo'' (weak/fragile fort) and its old bazaars such as Resham Bazaar (Silk Market) and Shahi Bazaar (Royal Market) and others . This fine and historical old city once used to be inhabited by many Hindus, both of the merchants class and also top-caste Brahmins or Pundits (priests); and though some poor Hindus still survive here in a few numbers, most of the wealthy old families left for India, long ago. These folk left behind their lovely old town mansions, the  'havelis' , some of which still stand. Many more have been simply demolished by Pakistanis, to give way to ugly new structures or big commercial plazas. Yet, a few lie empty or occupied illegally by squatters.

By looking at their sad ruins, we can assess their former status and grandeur. Who will ever preserve them? No one, surely, and in a few more years, those of them that are still there, will also be gone. In another decade all of Hyderabad--and Pakistan--will be devoid of this architectural and historical treasure. Another series of victims, to our brutish ways.


1. View, old haveli, Hyderabad

2. View, another old haveli, Hyderabad

Iqbal Manzil, Sialkot city

(online sources)

Iqbal Manzil (or Iqbal House) is situated in Sialkot city, Punjab, Pakistan.

The national poet of Pakistan, Allama Muhammad Iqbal was born in this house, located in Kashmiri Mohallah, on November 9th, 1877 in a Kashmiri-origin family. Iqbal’s father was Sheikh Noor Mohammad and his mother’s name was Imam Bibi. The house is now a national monument with a small library and most of the belongings of Allama Iqbal are preserved and restored here. The museum is open to everyone most days of the week.

Also see for more about Iqbal

http://www.allamaiqbal.com/

                            Iqbal Manzil, Sialkot, Pakistan--online sources 

Lal Haveli, Rawalpindi, Pakistan

(Wikipedia and other online sources)

The Lal Haveli (Red Mansion) is a big residential building situated near the famed Raja Bazaar of Rawalpindi city, Pakistan. The building is a notable landmark and a big tourist attraction because of its size and shape and garish brick-red colour.

The 'haveli' is not very old, and was probably made during the 1930s or 1940s. This structure is said to have been the abode of a famous prostitute of the area before independence of Pakistan in 1947. She had a 'masjid' (Muslim mosque) and a 'mandir' (Hindu temple) built within the confines of her residence, perhaps in order to placate the guilt of her diverse clients. The woman was murdered for reasons unknown and thus her ownership of this building ended.

Quite later on, it was purchased by the Pakistani politician, bookmaker & c, Shaikh Rashid Ahmad, who converted it into his own home and his political center. Allegedly, it probably still is used for various nefarious purposes, chiefly as a gambling den and brothel.

The Lal Haveli certainly deserves to be included here due to its highly colourful character.

                            View, the infamous Lal Haveli, Rawalpindi (online source) 

Poonch House, Rawalpindi

(online sources)

The Poonch House, in Rawalpindi city, Pakistan, is situated on Adamjee Road, main Saddar area. It is an oldish building dating back to around 1921-1922, and is presently in rather poor condition.

Poonch House is one of the buildings the Dogra Maharaja (ruler) of the formerly princely state of Jammu and Kashmir owned in areas that are now part of Pakistan. All these places, commonly referred to as ‘Kashmir properties,’ are in the administrative control of the federal Ministry of Kashmir Affairs. Kashmiri leaders have been demanding that the control of  these properties be given to the elected government of Azad Kashmir (i.e. Pakistani Controlled areas of Kashmir as opposed to Indian Controlled Jammu and Kashmir).

For long, Poonch House housed the camp office of the Azad Kashmir puppet president. However, after the construction of the Kashmir House in Islamabad, the major part of the so-called president’s office was taken over by the ministry, except for three rooms which became the camp office of the Azad Kashmir Election Commission.

                                  Poonch House, Rawalpindi, Pakistan 

Amarkot Fort of the Sodha Ranas, at Amarkot/Umerkot Thar area of Sindh

(various online sources)


Originally known as Amarkot, the present town of Umerkot was the capital of medieval Sindh province, including some parts of present Rajasthan (Rajputana) state of India. This province was ruled by the Hindu Sodha family (one of the subclans of the Paramara Rajputs). It also became prominent during the time of the Mughals and during the British Raj. The Mughal king Akbar was born in Amarkot/Umerkot when his father Humayun fled from military defeat at the hands of the Pathan/Afghan warrior Sher Shah Suri. Rana Prasad, a Hindu Sodha Rajput ruler of Amarkot, gave refuge to Humayun. Later the Mughal Emperor Akbar brought North India, including modern day Pakistan under Mughal rule and he confirmed the Ranas of this locale in their  'jagir' and estates.

Modern Umerkot has many sites of historical significance such as Mughal emperor Akbar's birthplace at Amarkot/Umarkot Fort where he was born on 14/15th  October 1542, this was also the old residence of the Ranas, the earliest foundations of which probably go back to medieval times, around 13th or 14th century, along with later 18th and 19th century changes. Recently, Rana Chandra Singh Sodha (1931–2009) was the Rana of the former Amarkot jagir after 1947, and remained a member of Pakistan's National Assembly and also a federal minister.

The former Rana family no longer lives in Amarkot Fort, which is managed by the Sindh provincial government, they have a house at 'Rana Jagir' their main estate, not too far away.



Also see:

http://www.amankiasha.com/news_cat.asp?id=1138&catId=2

                              Entrance to the old Amarkot Fort (now Umerkot) Sindh

Sadiq Garh Palace, Bahawalpur

from online sources)

Sadiq Garh Palace is another, perhaps the best and most famous of the palaces made by the former Nawabs of Bahawalpur state, in South Punjab, now in Pakistan (please also see earlier note below on Noor Mahal Palace) .

When Nawab Bahawal Khan Abbasi IV died in 1866, his son Sadiq was child of five, succeeded him. On his 18th birthday, Sadiq received the traditional 'dastaar' or turban and with it authority to rule over Bahawalpur as Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan IV.

Nawab Sadiq was a cultivated person and possessed of fine tastes. He was a great builder of palaces and as a connoisseur of Italian architectural practices left behind a number of extravagant buildings that flaunt his style and wealth. The finest and most well-known of these edifices that he made, was Sadiq Garh Palace, which was started in 1882 and completed thirteen years later in 1895. Sadly, fate decreed the Nawab only four years to enjoy the palace as he died in 1899, aged just 38.

Indeed, in this lasting monument to his taste, the Nawab created a masterful blend of vernacular and Italian architecture. The palace is a classic mixture of local and Italian building traditions as the Nawab’s wealth permitted him to acquire the services of an Italian architect. While the Italian executed the Baroque, working in close coordination with him were a number of local craftsmen to see that the imported did not completely take over the local. And so we have a plethora of bay windows, Mughal arches and domed minarets surmounted by a parapet with Italian ornamental details and domes. A happy mixture, all in all. However, it seems that the palace could be looked after better, it is a bit shabby at present.


See also: http://www.mybahawalpur.com/bwp/sadiqgarh.html

                                    Sadiq Garh Palace, Bahawalpur , South Punjab, Pakistan

Residence of former Dir Nawabs, in Dir, NWFP (Khyber Pakhtunkhwa), Pakistan

by Shirin Dil Khan

The Nawabs of Dir belong to the Akhun Khel family, who claim to have established their state in the mid-17th century, or possibly somewhat later.

Historically, there is little evidence of this family's existence before the 1870s and they seem to have concocted much 'old history' recently. Their residence, or 'Dir Nawab Fort' , is situated in the center of Dir town, in NWFP (Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province now) in Pakistan. It was a small state, and mostly over-shadowed by its larger neighbors Swat and Chitral, historically. Its first prominent ruler, who came into contact with the British, was Muhammad Shareef Khan, Khan of Dir from 1884 to 1904, who was originally styled 'Khan' but later on, in 1897, due to his loyalty to the British during the Frontier Uprising, was given the title of 'Nawab'. After him, the 4th and last Nawab of Dir was Shahjahan Khan, and Dir state was formally abolished and became part of Pakistan in 1969.

The former Nawab's residence or fort, is a long rambling building, enclosing several compounds, outhouses, watchtowers and big and small lawns and gardens, within a walled enclosure. It was mostly renovated and reconstructed in its present form, in around the 1920s, or 1930s. It is still owned by the Dir ex-Nawabi family, although sadly they seem not to have taken too much interest in it.

                                Online sources, 2014--aerial view, Dir ex Nawabi fort/residence

Talpur Mirs Faiz Palace, Khairpur, Sindh

by Mir Ijaz Khan

Faiz Palace in Khairpur town, Sindh province, Pakistan, was originally built in 1798 by the Talpur Mirs, who were rulers there. It is a true architectural classic of that time, with some later 19th c innovations and etc. The Khairpur former princely state acceded to Pakistan in 1956.

This splendid palace is surrounded by vast gardens. Faiz Mahal is well maintained and has retained most of its grandeur. The pinkish coloured structure, with its gold and cream outlines, and with its mixture of Mughal and Indian Baroque styles, looks like a glamorous birthday cake, and is a unique looking and richly-furnished place.

It is still owned by the Talpur family, ex Mirs/rulers of Khairpur state, some of whom live here.

                                     Faiz Mahal Palace, Khairpur town, Sindh, Pakistan 

Sindh Governor's House, Karachi, Sindh, Pakistan

(adapted from official Sindh Provincial Government Brief, with thanks)

The building stands on the original site of Government House in Karachi, which was constructed in the year 1843 by Sir Charles Napier when the British annexed Sindh.

The old Government House was originally built by Sir Charles Napier for his own use but the Government of India bought it from him when he left in 1847 after which it was occupied by Commissioner of Sindh. Then it was known as official residence of the Commissioner of Sindh.Later on, in 1935, Sindh was 'promoted' as a full governor's province by order of the then Government of India, and it was decided that the ex-Commissioner's House would become the new Governor's House.

The construction of present Governor House started in year 1936 by the architect R.T. Russell. The first Governor of Sindh , Sir Lancelot Graham was expected to live here. At the Foundation-laying Ceremony Sir Lancelot Graham expressed the need for a new house as the previous Government House (Napier’s Government House) was in dilapidated condition and no longer safe for habitation.

The new building was expected to cost seven hundred thousand rupees and was to be completed in two years. In the year 1939 the Indian and Pakistani Independence Movement was at high pitch when it was finally completed and Sir Lancelot Graham came to live in it. It was thought fit by the Governor and the Government of Sindh and the Government of India that a quiet, simple opening ceremony should be held instead of a grand inauguration.

After Sir Lancelot Graham, Sir Hugh Dow and Sir Frances Mudie ruled Sindh from here. On 7th August 1947, the Father of the Nation,Quaid-i-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah, first Governor-General of newly-independent state of Pakistan, resided in this monumental and prestigious abode till he breathed his last on 11th September 1948.

Since then, it has been occupied by various governors of Sindh province of Pakistan, from time to time. It's a valuable asset and is well-maintained by the Sindh Government.

                               Governor's House, Karachi, Sindh, Pakistan 

Shigar Fort, Baltistan, Northern Pakistan

(adapted from online sources)

Built in the 17th century by one of the warring Rajas of Baltistan, the Shigar Fort is a perfectly restored example of the traditional fortress-palace. Home to countless generations of the Amacha royal family, it was built to serve as both a refuge and as a celebration of the traditional heritage of this dynasty.

Today, exquisitely restored in 2004, to its former glory by local artisans using only traditional methods, the Fong-Khar Fort, or ‘Palace of the Rock' is a special tourist hotel that offers just 20 guest rooms, all of which are presented with all the richness and intricate beauty of their original incarnation. Additionally, the Residence offers its own restaurant, reception rooms, gardens and gift shop, all of which spearhead an ambitious programme, designed by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC), which is dedicated towards making all the advantages of a socially-responsible tourism programme realizable in the remote mountains of Northern Pakistan.

The Shigar Fort is an excellent example of how expert restoration can help save an old building and utilise it for practical purposes.

                     View of Shigar Fort (hotel now) from an online source, 2014 

Old Sikh and Hindu havelis of Bhera

by Mian Nazeer Ali


Bhera is a city of Sargodha district, Punjab, Pakistan. It lies on River Jhelum. It is an old city, with an ancient
historical past. According to historians, the word Bhera means in ancient Sanskrit language of India and Pakistan ''place without fear''. Before this name, earlier name of this place in BC time was Jobnathnagar, ruled by one Raja Jobnath or Chobnath. Later the name Beda or Bhira/Bhera became commonly adopted. It is not sure but some people of this area claim Alexander the Great and his army also came to this ancient place or near it.

At a later time, it is historically shown, the Chinese traveler and pilgrim Fa Hsien crossed River Jhelum from this same place, probably in 400 AD. Then, afterwards, Bhera was attacked and looted first by Muslim army of Mahmud Ghazni, then Mongol raiders, and in 1519 by Babur founder of Mughal empire of India. In 1540, the Pathan Sher Shah Suri , rebuilt and developed the city. At time of later Mughals, one Raja Salabat Rai or Salamat Rai, ruled Bhera and surrounding areas and even area of Khushab but he was murdered by a treacherous Khattak administrator, but his nephew Fatih Singh Rai, once again recovered the rule of this city. In Sikh times, the city was also expanded by Sikh and Hindu administrators and became a big center and market for agriculture trade (eg grains, vegetables, fruits etc) . At that time, the population was 60% Muslims and 40% Sikhs and Hindus, and the real owners and rich people of this city and surroundings were various Khatri families. They were mostly in business and trade or 'sahu kars' (moneylenders) and some were also landowners .

Some rich Sikhs and Hindu Khatris of Bhera city built a big grain market and also a number of old ''haveli'' (mansion houses) here in main bazaar area and around that area too. For a long time, under Sikh and British rule, these people living in these fine old ''havelis'' controlled Bhera and helped a lot in its proper progress. Schools, hospitals, and other municipal facilities were donated by them for all the people of Bhera, regardless of caste or creed.

But after 1947, the Sikhs and Hindus mostly escaped to India, as there was lots of killing in Punjab at partition, in East side Muslims were massacred and in West Punjab (including Sargodha and Bhera areas) Sikhs, Hindus were massacred without pity. That was the time of start of downfall of this ancient city, as once these benefactors went away, looting and fraud started here, by so-called 'Muslims'. According to Chacha Saifullah, a very old resident in Bhera (born probably in 1926 or 1927) , he saw the time before partition and independence, he was a young man at that time. He praises the Sikhs and Hindu Khatris and 'seths' who did honest and good business and maintained the city in very good and clean order. Their old 'haveli' houses, he says were mostly built at time of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820s or later also. In the whole Sargodha district (called also 'Shahpur' in older times) there were very few Muslim landowners or rich businessmen, maybe 6-7 or so. Rest were all Sikhs and Hindus. However, after 1947, when immigrants came from India 'fraud started here', he says. First, many of these immigrants were lowly people of humble origins but they connived with local 'patwaris' (land and revenue officials)and  showed falsely that they had left big houses and many lands, properties etc, in India, and they got much that dishonest way.

Then, taking their example, many local 'Zamindars' (landowners) also took over lands and properties left by Hindus and the Sikhs, by faking records and claiming ownership. Overnight, a culture of dishonesty became common here, and Bhera city was gradually ruined. New bazaars and plazas sprang up, many fine old 'havelis' were destroyed, and those still left, in a poor way, uncared for and exploited by these Pakistani looters. It is sad to see today the situation of many of these old houses, and of the old city and bazaars. It is all corruption and crookery, and a whole rich history and culture is dying out.

                                    View today of some old Sikh and Hindu 'havelis' at Bhera

Wali's Residence, Swat

(adapted from online sources)

Residence of the last Wali of Swat, Miangul Jahanzeb (1908-1987), is located in the heart of Saidu Sharif town, Swat valley, North-West Pakistan.

This vast large building complex is the residence of the last Wali of Swat and his sons, completed sometime between 1935 and 1940. The building consists of the courtyard,houses,guest house and a vast lawn, with orchards and so on . Glimpses of European and Mughal architecture, mixed with native style, are seen in this eclectic building. It is still owned by the former Wali Swat family.


See also:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wali_of_Swat

                                     Wali's residence, Saidu Sharif, Swat, Pakistan 

Junagadh House, Karachi--Making do in a material age

Brief research/note by Ms Sabiha Parvez


The former Indian princely state of Junagadh (now part of Gujerat state in India) acceded to Pakistan on Sept 15, 1947.However, the majority Hindu population of the state instigated by the Congress Party local leaders, rejected this decision and revolted and the Indian Army started to move in, to take over the area. His Highness Nawab Mahabat Khanji III, the lastruler of Junagadh, escaped to tne new state of Pakistan at that time, barely making it to Karachi city there, along with somefew relatives and servants. He was alloted some modest financial benefits by the Government of Pakistan and also given some land in Sindh and Punjab provinces and also, as his residence, allotted a big old house in Karachi, which had been left vacant by some rich Hindus fleeing to India at partition. This modern style town house was thereafter styled 'Junagadh House'
and late Nawab Mahabat Khanji died here, a sad and disillusioned man, on November 7, 1959.

With Nawab Mahabat Khanji's death, the title of Nawab of Junagadh died out, formally and legally, he was the last 'de facto' and 'de jure' Nawab; but his son, Dilawar Khanji, kept on living in Junagadh House, Karachi, and despite extensive litigation against him by other relatives claiming shares in various properties given the family in Pakistan, he kept on claiming his supposed 'right' to the title and to all the benefits and privileges thereof. In Pakistan, he was granted the use of the title as courtesy, for his lifetime only, and he served for a short while as Governor, of the Sindh province, under the Zulfikar Ali Bhutto regime. Dilawar Khanji, so-called 'Nawab' of a Junagadh that no longer existed, died in 1989. He was survived by his
junior wife, Begum Sahiba of Junagadh, and the following offspring:

1. Mr Jahangir Khanji, who now chooses to style himself as 'Nawab' and claims the defunct title;

2. Mr Alamgir Khanji, who is a banker in Karachi.

3. Mr Zaheer Khanji, who is also a banker in Karachi. and

4. Miss Aliya Khanji, daughter, who is an officer in the Pakistan Customs.

All of these people still live in Junagadh House, on Fatima Jinnah Road, Karachi. In addition, part of this luxurious and sprawling, valuable property in the heart of Karachi city, is leased out as a wedding and functions' venue, advertised amongst Karachi's noveau riche elite as 'the Royal Residence of the last Nawab of Junagadh, an ideal location for a grand wedding'. Thus, in this material day and age, an old family and their last place of retreat, are able to make do.


Also see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nawab_of_Junagarh (For list of Nawabs and brief background)





1. Junagadh House today, night view

2. Coat of Arms of former Junagadh state

Kalat House, Kalat, Baluchistan

by Irshad Ahmed Khan


The Khans of Kalat ruled the Kalat princely state, in Baluchistan, from the mid-17th century onwards. They belonged to the Baluchi Qambrani/Ahmadzai tribe, who usurped the earlier rule of a Hindu Raja, Sehwa, who had ruled in that region prior to 1665 AD. In that year Mir Ahmed Khan I removed this raja and assumed power, in late 1665 or early 1666, as first Khan of the Kalat state. After that, some 16 generations of his family or dynasty ruled there.

Originally, the Khans of Kalat used to live in an old fortess which was badly damaged or alomst destroyed, by an earthquake in 1930s. At that time, Mir Ahmad Yar Khan was ruling, as last Khan of Kalat (who later on acceded to Pakistan in 1955) and he wished to build a modern style house in main Kalat town. He thus obtained the services of some architect in Karachi, Sindh (the nearest big city), reputed to be probably a Hindu or Sikh, who came and designed the house, which was later constructed by some Sikh contractors or overseers, in late 1930s.

This house became quite famous later on as it had a unique shape and design and was much appreciated by 'modernists' in India. However, most people in Kalat thought it was not too nice, as they prefered an old and traditional Eastern type of fort or palace residence. However, they could not say this out as the Khan of Kalat had a strict and harsh regime and people feared they might be punished for their criticism. Today it seems most people in Baluchistan province of Pakistan have forgotten those dark days and are wanting to return to that repressive time.

 

                                  Close up view of Kalat House, Kalat, Baluchistan province of Pakistan 

Royal Fort, Chitral

Dr Iftikhar Malik

The Royal Fort of Chitral, is situated in Chitral, NWFP/KP, Pakistan. It used to be the main seat of the former 'Mehtars' or 'Rajas' (rulers) of the ex-princely state of Chitral. They belonged to the Kator or Katur Dynasty, who ruled there since the 1560s.

The Royal Fort in Chitral has a commanding position on the Chitral River. It is believed to have been built in the 1560s and was restored in 1774 and 1911, respectively. It is still owned by the descendants of the former Chitral royal family and they live there when in their native area. One can only enter it with permission from the owners. A mosque, the 'Shahi Masjid' (Royal Mosque) is also adjacent to the Fort, and was built by one of the rulers, Shuja ul Mulk,  in the 1930s. He is buried in a coner of the mosque.

The ex royal family of Chitral also own a Summer palace, or lodge,  at a place called Birmoghlasht, on top of a mountain looking down from 9000 feet unto Chitral town and fort below.

    

                                 Chitral Fort, front view, online photo source, 2014 

The Noor Mahal Palace, Bahawalpur

(from Wikipedia and other online sources)

The Noor Mahal is a palace in Bahawalpur, South Punjab, Pakistan. It was built in 1872 like an Italian chateau on neoclassical lines, at a time when modernism had set in. It belonged to the Nawab of Bahawalpur princely state, during British Raj. Its name means 'Palace of Light'.

There are various stories regarding its construction. According to one legend, Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan IV had the palace made for one of his wives, who was a special favourite; however, she was only there for one night, as she happened to see the adjoining graveyard from her balcony, and refused to spend another night there, and so it remained unused during his reign.

Noor Mehal is one of the hidden gems of Bahawalpur, due to the lack of publicity. The palace is open to public. It is currently in the possession of the Pakistan Army and is used as a state guest house for holding state durbars and meetings with foreign delegations.

Also see

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noor_Mahal

   
                                      Noor Mahal Palace, Bahawalpur. (c) Wikipedia 2014

Sethi House(s) in Sethi Mohallah, Peshawar

by Ms Tasneem Ahmad (and also some material online)

Sethi 'Mohallah' is a street or neighborhood in the heart of the old walled city of Peshawar, Pakistan. The Mohallah contains seven houses (including main Sethi House a cultural heritage building) built by the Sethis. These unique houses are a blend of the art and architecture of Gandhara and Central Asia, are rare architectural masterpieces located in the walled city.The first was built by Haji Ahmed Gul Sethi in 1882.

The Sethis were traders/businessmen who had businesses in China, India, Afghanistan, Iran and Central Asia, with trade centres at Kabul, Mazar-i-Sharif, Tashkent, Bukhara, Samarkand and other cities in the Asian region.

The downfall of the Sethis began during the Russian Revolution in 1917, when their businesses experienced setbacks from which they never recovered, forcing them to leave Central Asia and return to Peshawar.

The Sethi homes in Peshawar were designed with inspiration from the vernacular architecture of Bukhara. Two neatly decorated tehkhanas (basement rooms), a balakhana (upper storey), dalaans (big halls), chinikhanas (rooms where decoration and art pieces are displayed on chimneypieces) and fountains can be found in each house. The ceilings are painted and the walls are decorated with mirror work. One of the houses has been purchased by the NWFP Government, this house has two portions, one for men and one for women. The overall structure is a combination of brick and woodwork embellished with carved wooden doors and balconies. Painted and mirrored atriums provide fresh air and attractive views, while the main entrances are made of superbly carved wood.

It has 12 rooms and four basements and includes a fountain. Colourful glass ceilings with geometrical designs, woodwork with engravings of various splendid designs on walls, a big resting place, made of wood and called Takht-e-Sulaimani, to take sunshine in winter, beautiful ventilators, slanting window-shades, wooden wall cupboards, chimneys and red bricks stairs with projected wooden frames are some of the prominent features of the house.

                                       View, Sethi street/mohallah, Peshawar old city

Altit and Baltit Forts, Hunza Valley, Northern Pakistan

(adapted and compiled from online sources)

Altit and Baltit forts are two ancient forts, belonging to the family of the Mirs (rulers) of Hunza, a remote but lovely valley and formerly a small princely state of Northern Pakistan.

Altit Fort is an ancient fort above Karimabad town in the Hunza valley. It was originally home to the hereditary rulers of the Hunza state who carried the title Mir, although they moved to the somewhat younger Baltit fort nearby three centuries later. Altit Fort and in particular the Shikari tower is around 1100 years old, which makes it the oldest monument in the Gilgit–Baltistan region.

The Altit Fort was in great disrepair, but has recently been restored jointly by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, the Historic Cities Support Programme and the Government of Norway. It is characterized by small rooms and low portals with exquisite wood carvings. Japan has contributed to the renovation of the surrounding old village. Altit Fort is a tourist site which has been open to the public since 2007, after its restoration.

The Baltit Fort is somewhat newer, dating to circa the 14th century, and the Mir family of Hunza lived here since that time, abandoning the older Altit Fort.

In the past, the survival of the feudal regime of Hunza was ensured by the impressive Baltit Fort, which overlooks Karimabad town. The foundations of the fort date back to 700 years ago, with rebuilds and alterations over the centuries. In the 16th century the local prince married a princess from Baltistan who brought master Balti craftsmen to renovate the building as part of her dowry. The architectural style is a clear indication of Buddhist Tibetan influence in Baltistan at the time.

The Mirs of Hunza abandoned the fort in 1945, and moved to a new palace down the hill. The fort started to decay which caused concern that it might possibly fall into ruin. Following a survey by the Royal Geographical Society of London a restoration programme was initiated and supported by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and the Historic Cities Support Programme. The programme was completed in 1996 and the fort is now a museum run by the Baltit Heritage Trust.


See also

http://www.hunzanagar.com/textpage.php?id=212

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altit_Fort

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baltit_Fort

 

                           1. A view of Altit Fort, Hunza Valley (Wikipedia photo)

 

                         2. A view of Baltit Fort, Hunza Valley (Wikipedia photo) 

Lucky Mohatta Palace, Karachi

(adapted from Wikipedia and online sources)


Mohatta Palace, in Karachi, Sindh province of Pakistan, has been a lucky place--due to its connection to late Mst Fatima Jinnah, sister of the Quaid i Azam M.A Jinnah (founder of Pakistan) it has got a better fate than most old houses and mansions in other parts of Pakistan.  It has become a properly maintained museum and gallery today.

It was originally built by Mr Shivratan Chandraratan Mohatta, a Hindu Marwari businessman from modern day Rajasthan in India, as his summer home in 1927.The architect of the palace was Agha Ahmed Hussain. However, Mohatta could enjoy this building for only about two decades before the independence, after which he left Karachi for India, in 1947. He built the Palace in the tradition of stone palaces in Rajasthan, using pink Jodhpur stone in combination with the local yellow stone from Gizri. The amalgam gave the palace a distinctive presence in an elegant neighbourhood, characterised by Indo-Saracenic architecture which was located not far from the sea.

After Mohatta's departure to India, the Government of Pakistan acquired the building to house the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 1947. Mst Fatima Jinnah, the sister of the Quaid-i-Azam M. A Jinnah, moved into it in 1964 as it was lying empty and she had no place to stay. In the '60s Mohatta Palace was dubbed 'Qasre-e-Fatima', becoming the hub of her presidential campaign against military dictator, President Ayub Khan. After her questionable sudden death, her sister Shireen Jinnah moved in to occupy the ground floor for many years. With her death in 1980, the palace was sealed.

In 1995 it was purchased by the Government of Sindh for its conversion into a museum devoted to the arts of Pakistan. As a result of the interest taken by the Government of Sindh which took over the ownership of the property and appointed an independent board of trustees headed by the Governor, to formulate recommendations on how best to adapt and use the palace, the building was saved. The trust was established to manage the property and ensure that it would not be sold or utilised for commercial or any other purpose other than that stipulated in the trust deed.Funds for the acquisition of collections for the museum and the construction of an extension will be raised by the trustees through private and public grants, donations and other fund raising activities.The Museum formally opened in 1999. Behind the building can be found a small collection of "English" statues such as Queen Victoria, soldiers of the Raj etc.

One wishes other provincial governments and the central federal government also had this sort of vision, to save many other places whilst these are still there.

 Also see :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohatta_Palace

http://www.mohattapalacemuseum.com/

 
                              (c) Mohatta Palace site, 2014, with thanks and acknowledgement

Lockhart House, Abbottabad

by M Ilyas

Some months ago, a petition appeared online at www.change.org, to 'Save Lockhart House, in Abbottabad, Pakistan''.  This petition, addressed to the DC Abbottabad, further stated that:

''Save Lockhart House .This was the home of Gen Sir William Lockhart (1841-1900) built and completed around 1880 and now marked for demolition by the Cantt Board and Military Estate Office, in Abbottabad town. You can help to secure a permanent future for this fine historic structure. Lockhart House is a vital part of Abbottabad's colonial heritage which is being rapidly lost by blind, unplanned development, that does not take into account the preservation of the past.''

It is not known what was the final outcome of this petition, as some people from Pakistan, UK, Australia and Canada, also petitioned the Commandant PMA (Pakistan Military Academy) and the Abbottabad Station Commandant (Military), and for the time being it seems that the plan to demolish this old heritage building, has been postponed.

Gen Lockhart was a British soldier who served for long years on the North-West Frontier and retired after becoming Commander-in-Chief of the British Indian Army, he was very fond of Abbottabad town and he and his family decided to build a house there. This house was probably made in the 1880-1890 period (completed) and the Lockhart family used to live here regularly. Very interesting fact, that they also built another annex or cottage nearby, which they used to house guests, and today, this also ruined building is called 'Kipling House' by local people, due to the fact that John Lockwood Kipling, manager of the Mayo College of Arts (now NCA) in Lahore, and father of famed writer Rudyard Kipling, used to come and stay here during the 1880s and 1890s. He was a great personal friend of Gen Lockhart. Some people also believe that JL Kipling's family also stayed here with him one or two summers, including Rudyard Kipling, but there is no proper historical evidence of this. In fact, its most likely, that both Lockhart House and the additional house, were completed after Rudyard had left India permanently, for England.

Later on, after 1947, both Lockhart House (main) and so-called 'Kipling House' became part of Federal Government (FG) School in Abbottabad, classes used to be held here, and these buildings are still on campus of this institution, although not in use anymore due to bad condition.

Staff of the FG College dont know whats in store for these buildings, especially the historic and splendid looking Lockhart House, which was the loved home once of a former C-in-C of the Army and his family. This building also has great tourist potential, it can be saved and developed either as a museum or heritage place. Maybe the present Chief of Army Staff (Pakistan Army) might take a personal interest, to salvage this home of a predecessor, for the sake of future? That would be a good thing to do.

 
                                 Lockhart House, Abbottabad, Pakistan 

Old havelis and structures of Saman Burj, Punjab

by Talal Raza (c/o talalraza.wordpress.com)

Saman Burj is a small suburban town located in the northern end of the Punjabi city of Wazirabad. It is believed to be the place where Jehangir often used to reside with his wife Noor Jehan while travelling to Kashmir. According to Irfanullah Raja, a resident, “It used to be the Royal Serai built during Emperor Jehangir’s time in 1601 AD. While travelling to Kashmir from Lahore every year, Emperor Jehangir and Empress  Noor Jehan used to spend some days here when River Chenab had strong water current.”

Irfanullah also told that Saman Burj was later seized by Charat Singh, grandfather of Maharaja Ranjit Singh when Mughal Empire was in decline , who after renovation added some new structures and started living here. Then his son Mahan Singh occupied it who was the father of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Most present buildings date from late 18 and 19 centuries, except for part of the ruined old building where the Mughals once stayed which is older.

At present, it is interesting to note that neither Sikhs nor Mughals live in Saman Burj. In fact, the present residents claim to be the relatives of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir’s second wife Begum Bai, a Jarral Rajput hailing from Rajauri in Indian Occupied Kashmir. Begum Bai was also the mother of Emperor Shah Alam.

Historians note that Jarral Rajas ruled Kalanaur (a place in Indian Punjab close to Gurdaspur) for 350 years as Hindu Rajas. In 1192, when Shahab-ud-din Ghauri moved in, Jarral Rajas accepted his suzerainty and embraced Islam as well.

In 1194, Jarral Rajas occupied Rajauri (in the Jammu and Kashmir state) and they dwelt here for next 650 years and built a number of forts, mosques, 'sarais' (inns), 'havelis'(mansions) and 'baradaris' (pavilions).

When Mughal empire went into decline, Sikh power under Ranjit Singh was established in parts of Punjab and Kashmir and Rajauri also came under them. Later when the British defeated the Sikhs in the First Anglo-Sikh War, in 1846, they sold Kashmir to Raja Gulab Singh Dogra and the Jarral Rajas were thus forced to leave homes. Thus, dejected, engulfed in sorrow over the loss of the land they had ruled for 6 centuries, these Rajas left Rajauri and moved towards Kangra Valley, Punjab, and then owing to a family dispute one of the members named Raja Fakirullah moved to Wazirabad's Saman Burj after buying land there. It is said that Faikirullah chose to stay in Wazirabad with the hope of eventually returning to Rajauri one day. That is how the Jarral Rajputs moved into Saman Burj in Wazirabad.

The Saman Burj today comprises a number of buildings enclosed by gates and wall. You enter through a wooden sky-blue door in one big gate. Walking on a footpath few furlongs, I soon found myself among the old buildings within.

As I moved around, I was shown the bricks that were used. Explaining the structural and area details, Irfanullah Raja notes that, “It is comprised of approximately 7 acres enclosed by a huge wall with access through two huge gates. There are 'havelis' (mansions) and a Baradari (pavilion) for use as residences and 4 acres of garden lies in the center with walkways to reach the residences. On the northern end of Saman Burj flows a tributary of River Chenab known as Pulkhu.”

I got a chance to see what I was told the oldest structure of Saman Burj. The building had three floors, the basement, the ground floor and the top floor. I roamed around different parts of the building, fascinated by the paintings on the wall but at the same time saddened by the way the glorious art was, in its present state of negligence. From the pillars on which the building rested to the paintings on the wall, everything highlighted an art that is never seen in the construction of houses nowadays. On the top floor was the room where Jehangir and his wife once lived.

While looking at different structures, I came to know that the buildings were constructed differently than the way it’s done today. “Instead of cement, crushed limestone mixed with lentils and cotton was used in the construction. “ However Irfanullah pointed out that owing to a lot of renovations and new constructions even within the house, the originality has been lost. While looking at the faint colored paintings on the wall, architecture being ignored, in wonder I asked Irfanullah, “Who do you blame for this present state ?” He replied, “We blame ourselves for we have ignored it.”

A room at the top floor was full of paintings. The paintings depict pictures of Guru Nanak preaching and Maharaja Ranjit Singh celebrating Holi Festival. Rest of the paintings are of flowers and horsemen.

Whether the government or any other organization should help them in restoring the sites or not, one has to admit that the structures standing in the north of Wazirabad speak for themselves even when they are in shambles. Sites like Saman Burj are not just a bunch of old structures. Each brick on the wall, each grain of the soil and every painting has a story to narrate, has intriguing things to offer to those who love the Indo-Pak subcontinent's history.

               (c) Copyright, Talal Raza 2014, used with thanks--view of an old haveli at Saman Burj

Abbott House, at Abbottabad (supposed)

by Waheed-ud-din Khan

Abbottabad town in Hazara, NWFP/KPK, Pakistan, is a historical town dating from British colonial days. It was founded in January 1853 by Major James Abbott (born 1807-died 1896) who was first British Deputy Commissioner of the region. Today, Abbottabad is a big and flourishing town, with many benefits and problems, at the same time.

When Abbottabad town was first conceived by Major Abbott, he wished to set up a small cantonment type military garrison town with a small bazar and other facilities, in a cool and pleasing climate, so he chose the present town site. At the time when the contructions of the town first began, Abbott also made a small hill bungalow or cottage for himself, here. When this bungalow or cottage was completed, in January-February 1853, Abbott himself was not able to enjoy if for long, as he was posted to Bengal in April 1853 and had to bid farewell (in his famous poem) to the town he made.

This small 'Abbott Cottage' was in fact still in reasonable living condition in 1880s, and in an old record album preserved by the family of Major Fenton of Sikh Regiment, we can see a view of it (see below 1). According to the old Hazara District Gazetteer of 1883, as well as later editions, this cottage or house was built by Major Abbott somewhere near or upon Shimla Hill at the back of the Abbottabad cantonment (not to be confused with Simla in India) and it is not known who was occupying it then. This cottage or house was like many similar such houses built at that time in the 19th century, at Abbottabad.

However, quite later on, around the 1920s, a rather different type of house, bigger and more ornate, was shown and identified as 'Abbott House', situated close to the base of Shimla Hill, Abbottabad Cantonment--what was this? Was this in fact the same place and same house or cottage, expanded by some later occupant? The recent photo of the second so-called 'Abbott House' is also given below (See No 2). The surroundings dont seem to be the same and, certainly, the house is very different.

Some old residents of Abbottabad town who still remember anything, say that yes, this was the site where Abbott's actual small bungalow or cottage had once stood; and this had later been taken by some rich Sikhs, who lived here before 1947 and developed the property and expanded the house, adding new blocks and rooms and designs, inside and outside, over time. Some historians also agree with this, they say that the present house or building doesnt seem to be older than 1920s.

However, there are also some people in Abbottabad, including the local MEO (Military Estate Office) and the present owners (Muslims) of this property, who insist this is 'the exact same Abbott House' which was built for himself by James Abbott some one hundred sixty years ago. They dont have any real evidence but who can say for sure? Both the arguments still exist and continue. The smaller, earlier house is today nowhere else to be seen in Abbottabad.

In any case, the supposed 'Abbott House' that we know, today, is also not in very good condition. It was damaged by fire and earthquakes and is in rather shabby and fragile condition. If this is really the old and real 'Abbott House' then the Abbottabad District Government must take steps to save this place as a heritage site. They have recently set up the Abbott Museum in the old town hall down in the bazar, but it may be better to relocate that museum to this place, on one side. There are a number of old buildings in Abbottabad from British times, which should be declared 'heritage sites' and preserved for posterity, as tourist attractions.


1. Original 'Abbot House'

2. Today's supposed 'Abbott House'

Sardar Sujan Singh Haveli in Rawalpindi to be refurbished by NCA (Some hope? )

(Rawalpindi, news report, from daily the ''Dawn'' 6th February 2014, by Aamir Yasin, reproduced with thanks)

The majestic 124-year-old Haveli Sujan Singh (or 'Soojan Singh') , used by the Fatima Jinnah Women University (FJWU), will soon be renovated by the National College of Arts (NCA).

The NCA and FJWU have entered an agreement under which the former will preserve the building and hand it back to the university after three years.

The college will use this opportunity to establish a ‘field school’ for students learning techniques and methods of historic preservation with the cooperation of Boston Architectural College (BAC), USA.

The two-storey haveli, once the residence of renowned local political figure and philanthropist Sardar Sujan/Soojan Singh, is located in the narrow streets of Bhabhra Bazaar. It was constructed in 1890 and is a fine specimen of brick masonry with a front verandah facing the street.The wooden door, carved with animal and floral motifs, opens into an entrance hall connected with an inner verandah. The building used to have majestic woodwork over the doors and windows. Its floors used to be covered with English tiles while Victorian furniture and Chinese silverware adorned the rooms.

The building shows the implicit faith that Hindu and Sikh communities had in their workmen, including their eye for detail in crafting intricate patterns and skill in carving mythological stories on doors while keeping in line with their traditions.

Apart from his private palace, Sujan Singh’s family also endowed huge amount of money for public welfare projects and built public areas for civic engagements.

“They were singularly responsible for the beatification of Rawalpindi city in the 19th and 20th century. The family built a beautiful garden, popularly remembered as Bagh Sardaraan (the garden of Sardars) which was stretched over acres with lawns, trees, plants, birds and animals,” said NCA Director Nadeem Omar .

A temple, a marriage house and Hardit Singh Library and Museum were also housed there for public use.

In addition, Sujan Singh built the entrance to Saddar Bazaar, known as Massey Gate in the memory of Brig. Gen. Massey, at a cost of Rs200,000.

This arch was demolished in 1920s for widening the road, but the market lasted till the 1970s.

In addition, Sujan Singh and his uncle Kirpal Singh founded Lansdowne Institute at Rawalpindi in the 1890s. The institute’s building on the Mall provided accommodation for theatricals, concerts and dance.

However, after partition in 1947, the building fell victim to the anger of local residents against the Sikhs and Hindus. The government also settled Kashmiri refugees in the haveli who destroyed the artistic woodwork before being evacuated later in 1980.

There were rumours that the building would be handed over to scientist A.Q. Khan for establishing a science college for women, but the plan never materialised. Later, Sheikh Rashid Ahmed, the ex-federal minister from Rawalpindi, announced that the building would be converted into a campus for FJWU, and its custody was handed over to the university.

FJWU considered starting a school of culture, heritage, architecture and designs for women, but the plan was never put into action. Finally, NCA Rawalpindi campus took over the building in January 2014 and decided to build a field school and a museum there. So, finally, is there some hope for this historic old haveli fallen on bad times?

                           (c) Soojan/Sujan Singh haveli, Rawalpindi, thanks to Sikh chic site 2014

Hur do Chir haveli (Salt Range Punjab)

by Salman Rashid

Raja Afrasiab, the Sarangal Gakkhar, lives in a lovely old haveli of the classical design in village Hur Do Chir in the Salt Range of Punjab. I had imagined this meant there were two neighbouring villages where chir trees grew, but I was wrong: there wasn’t a pine tree in sight and there was only one village of this name. Nor too did Afrasiab know the origin of the name. He told us, however, that the village was formerly called Soga Dutt, apparently after an early local influential man.

We had left the Mandra-Chakwal road at village Sahang and motored through undulating country to fetch up in the village and had found Afrasiab waiting. He told us his family had not one, but two havelis to show. The first one, itself rather austere, had a hugely beautiful carved door. Here were flowers so extravagant that they could only have emerged from an artist’s mind intertwined with vines of equally exaggerated style and beauty. Here were sets of pilasters growing out of pots that, according to Kamil Khan Mumtaz, the noted architectural historian, symbolised the treasure of Laxmi.

The jamb and the lintel were profuse with curvi-linear forms and the arch above the door was another abundance of similarly rich flowers and leaves. In the spandrels shone two sunflower-like designs and the outer rectangular panels were again filled in with more pilasters, geometrical patterns and phantasmagoric flowers and vines. One had grown to expect such artistry in Chiniot and Multan or other larger towns. Hardly in a place as remote as Hur Do Chir.

Remote today, the village, situated as it is amid ravines and broken ground, would have been all but inaccessible in 1926 when Zaildar Sultan Mahmood, Afrasiab’s grandfather, had undertaken to build this haveli. Timber for the door, so Afrasiab relates, came from the market in Jhelum town, carted across the Salt Range by camel. Azeem, the master whose celebrity spread wide as the greatest woodworker of the area, came from a neighbouring village and was hired at two annas per day. Such a master would surely have worked with a complement of helpers and this sum would have paid for the lot. For eight months the Azeem and his team laboured over the timbers before they could all be put together to make up the door.

Two annas per day translate into sixty per month or four rupees and twelve annas per month. Which in turn would mean thirty rupees in all for the eight months it took to complete this fantasy in wood. Other than that Afrasiab did not know how much the timber and its transportation from Jhelum had cost. Nor did he know the full cost of the haveli.

                              (c) Mr Salman Rashid, 2014 acknowledged with thanks 

Haveli Nau Nihal Singh, Lahore

by Muhammad Ali Khwaja

This lofty Haveli is reckoned among the most magnificent buildings of the old city of Lahore, in Punjab, Pakistan. It was built by Prince Nau Nihal Singh (died 1840), son of Maharaja Kharak Singh (who was son of the famous Maharaja Ranjit Singh) as his private residence. It contains numerous spacious chambers, halls and balconies. The ceilings are decorated with paintings and mirrors, and are worked in gold. The walls are richly and tastefully ornamented with glasses and painted flowers. The back of this haveli is richly decorated with stucco carving. The Haveli was taken over by the British Government when Punjab was annexed in 1849 and converted into the first public school for girls, named the 'Victoria Higher Secondary School' later the  'Government Victoria Girls High School'.

Today, this historic old haveli still survives but is in need of careful and loving preservation.


For comprehensive details and nice photographs please see http://www.sikhchic.com/architecture/the_haveli_of_maharaja_naunihal_singh_a_jewel_in_the_heart_of_lahore

 
                        (c) Old/Walled City of Lahore Development Authority site, Govt of Pakistan, 2014,                                    acknowledged with thanks 

Sawhney Haveli, Nawanshehr

(Blog Report- IHMalik)


Near Abbottabad town, in NWFP (or Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province), Pakistan, is the small hamlet of Nawanshehr. This little hamlet was first inhabited by some aboriginal Hindu Tanolis and Gujjar peoples of ancient Hazara and later by some Punjabi Awan settlers. Till 18th century this was the position.

In the 18th century some Jadoon Pathans defeated the Gujjar, Tanoli and Awan peoples and took over control of Nawanshehr and Dhamtor areas and also the valley of Orash, where Abbottabad town now is located. From 18th century onwards, the main people in this area became Jadoons, however some Tanolis, Awans, Gujjars and other old Hindu people continued to live here, and later also some Sikhs settled here, during Sikh rule of Hazara district, till 1849.

In 1849, the British took over all Punjab from the defeated Sikhs and also Hazara district. The first Britisher DC (Deputy Commissioner/District Collector) was Major James Abbott, and in 1853 he made the town of Abbottabad named after him. This small town continued to grow and became an important town and cantonement military center, home of PIFFER (FF) and also 5 Goorkha Regiments. The British did a lot of development work here and the town bazar and also nearby suburbs grew and developed too, Nawanshehr was also one such area. It passed from just a small Jadoon hamlet, home to some illiterate Pathans, to a medium-sized urban township with many facilities and educated-minded religious class population. The Hindus of Nawanshehr were especially very prosperous and educated and owned most of the town's property, later after 1947 (Independence of Pakistan) most of these properties sadly became taken over by land grabbing 'mafias' and criminals. One such very rare and beautiful property was the old family 'haveli' (mansion) of a famous Hindu Sawhney family.

The Sawhney family were very prominent and famous Hindu Khatris, of Hazara district and very rich and owned almost 1/3rd of Nawanshehr township and also some properties in nearby main Abbottabad town. Original ancestor of Sawhneys was Lala Ram Das, who settled here around 1825 and started a small greocery business, also lending money to Jadoons farmers of the area. One member of this family also had a big coal business supplying the British Army units from Chakwal area of Punjab. Later, the family made a big fortune and a big name, and one Sawhney was late Rai-Bahadur Tirath Ram Shah, MBE, he was head of the Nawanshehr township municipal committee and mayor, and he obtained a big timber business in Hazara area and also other businesses, and was very successful. He was later also made a provincial 'Durbari' by the British Government and given the MBE award, he was one of the top 2-3 Hindu leaders of all Hazara area. Rai-Bahadur made a home in Nawanshehr location but this was probably small as he had a large family and after his death, his son Rai-Bahadur Ishar Das, made a proper and impressive 'haveli' mansion here in probably 1902-1905. This was known far and wide as 'Babu Ishar Das haveli' or 'Sawhney haveli'.

Rai-Bahadur 'Babu' Ishar Das, MA, BA, LLB, was the most famous son of RB Tirath Ram Shah, and the head of Sawhney family in Hazara region. He was a highly educated and learned man, and also a big and sucessful businessman. Indeed, he was the founder and original majority shares owner of the old Premier Sugar Mills, in Mardan, NWFP,  later taken over by local Muslims. He remained Honorary Magistrate,  Honorary Secretary Nawanshehr town committee, and a district and provincial 'Durbari' and received in 1922 the 'Kaiser i Hind' medal for his role in helping to raise funds from this area for the World War 1. Rai-Bahadur Ishar Das was also an enlightened and liberal man and he also helped finance the old ruined Arya Samaj temple in that place and also made contributions to renovating the Arya Samaj mandir (temple) in main Abbottabad town bazar, and surprisingly also for the renovation of Ilyas Masjid (mosque) in Nawanshehr.

Sawhney 'haveli' or 'Ishar Das haveli' was a very beautiful and impressive building at that time, it was the center piece of Nawanshehr and people used to come from many places to visit and see it. It was made in a beautiful and fine manner, with artists and artisans coming from Peshawar and also Kashmir, to do special work in it, in stone and wood.  It was the home of cultured and civilised people.

Yet, what happened to this fine place after Pakistan came into being? Initially, while Babu Isher Das lived, he used to visit Pakistan from India and things werent too bad, but after his death, they sank to abysmal levels. The house fell into a bad state and began to fall apart, no one cared or loved it anymore. It was then taken over by a 'qabza group' and is today the building of a third-rate school 'Orash Public School'. Who us running it? Why does not the NWFP/KP government heritage department look after it? One by one, in Abbottabad, Nawanshehr and environs, all unique old British, Sikh and Hindu properties have fallen victim to greedy people. This trend goes on today without check.

                   Entrance to the Sawhney/Ishar Das haveli in Nawanshehr, near Abbottabad
                   (c) 'Environmentalist'  at Abbottabad Pakistan site, March 2007 , with thanks

Talokar Old Bangla (Bungalow), Hazara

by Dr Iftikhar Malik


Talokar village, near Haripur town, Hazara, NWFP (now KP) in North-West Pakistan, is a historical place.

Founded by Hindu Talokar Jatts, around the 15-16th century it became part of a 'Jageer' estate granted by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (ruled 1628-1658) to Sardar (Chief) Bustan Khan Tarin who migrated here with around 300 clan people from Afghanistan, in 1629-1630.Talokar was thus occupied by these new Afghan/Pashtun settlers. One later chief Sardar Bahadur Khan Tarin joined the Afghan forces of King Ahmad Shah (Durrani) which fought and defeated the Marhattas at Third Battle of Panipat in 1761, and after this, the Sardar was granted official honours and appointed administrator or 'hakim' of lower Hazara (Maidan Hazara). In 1765, Bahadur Khan met an Englishman called Mr Montague, who visited from Lahore as an early traveler. In his MS at a UK archive or library, Montague mentions visiting the 'haveli' mansion of Bahadur Khan at Talokar in that year.

The old 'haveli' of Bahadur Khan is, alas, no more. It was badly burnt and damaged by Sikh attacks later and only a small part of it survived. This was incorporated into a new 'bangla' (bungalow) house made at the location, by another later Tarin chief Muhammad Habib Khan in 1881-1882. Habib Khan served as a cavalry officer (Risaldar) in the British Army and retired in 1864. A person of 'modern' tastes, he was fond of Urdu poetry and 'ghazal' songs/music, had lived long in Bengal, Bihar and Oudh, and developed sophisticated habits unlike most of the savage and ignorant Hazarawal tribal chiefs. On retirement, he built an open, Bengali style house where the old family 'haveli' had stood. This building was made of sun-baked bricks, with deep verandahs around two courtyards, on a three-level single-storey plan. Some mention of this is given in records/letters by NG Waterfield (ex Commissioner of Peshawar Division) dating to 1882. This 'bangla' was later expanded in 1905 by a son of Habib Khan, Abdul Majeed Khan, OBE (1877-1939), into its present existing form, as he also added some additional property inherited from his mother, into this compound.

A government officer during British times , Abdul Majeed Khan served as a magistrate and retired in 1934. He became one of the first Hazara leaders to join the All India Muslim League, and in 1936 was elected to the NWFP Legislative Assembly. Abdul Majeed Khan was specially noted for his strong views, advising the senior central leadership (including Quaid i Azam M.A. Jinnah, in a letter dated April 1939) to maintain autonomous Muslim states or zones within a larger Indian Federation, along a USA-model; he believed this would have long term benefits for Muslims and they could also thus avoid clashes with Hindus, Sikhs and other Indian subcontinent communities. However this plan was never followed and in March 1940, the Lahore Resolution called for an 'autonomous' Muslim state, later modified in 1946 to a demand for a separate country altogether. In 1947 Pakistan came into being. Abdul Majeed Khan died in June 1939.

Since then, the offspring of Abdul Majeed Khan have lived in the present  'bangla' at village Talokar, so its at least somewhat preserved. One brother of this leader, was also famous, Jemadar Abdul Latif Khan, who died in Iraq (then called Mesopotamia) in 1916, during World War 1, and got a bravery medal. Another relative who died in World War 1 was Sepoy Sikandar Khan, who lies buried in a Muslim cemetery in UK. Abdul Majeed Khan's had three sons, of which eldest was late His Excellency Ambassador Saleem Khan, who died in 1957. He was a senior Pakistani diplomat who served at various places like Ceylon (Sri Lanka), Japan, UK etc. The wife of Ambassador Khan was the well-known Pakistani lady social worker and ex-minister, Begum Mahmooda Saleem. Other members of this gifted family have also been notable, at various levels, in various fields. Noted Pakistani poet and scholar Omar Tarin, is also related to this family.

According to one historian of Haripur area, this old 'Talokar bangla has produced many famous people, its a true landmark of the area'. This building has now stood here for more than 130 years on the site of an older building which had stood here at least 250 years ago. Who knows what its future will bring? Let's hope the noble traditions of this house will continue to shine.

                               (c) View interior, Talokar 'bangla' , 2014



NB: I am grateful for assistance and historical material to family of late HE Abdus Saleem Khan, family of late Abdul Hameed Khan,  staff at records section at NWFP/KPK Archives and Records department, Peshawar, and also the Punjab Archives staff, Civil Secretariat, Lahore.