Poonch House, Rawalpindi

(online sources)

The Poonch House, in Rawalpindi city, Pakistan, is situated on Adamjee Road, main Saddar area. It is an oldish building dating back to around 1921-1922, and is presently in rather poor condition.

Poonch House is one of the buildings the Dogra Maharaja (ruler) of the formerly princely state of Jammu and Kashmir owned in areas that are now part of Pakistan. All these places, commonly referred to as ‘Kashmir properties,’ are in the administrative control of the federal Ministry of Kashmir Affairs. Kashmiri leaders have been demanding that the control of  these properties be given to the elected government of Azad Kashmir (i.e. Pakistani Controlled areas of Kashmir as opposed to Indian Controlled Jammu and Kashmir).

For long, Poonch House housed the camp office of the Azad Kashmir puppet president. However, after the construction of the Kashmir House in Islamabad, the major part of the so-called president’s office was taken over by the ministry, except for three rooms which became the camp office of the Azad Kashmir Election Commission.

                                  Poonch House, Rawalpindi, Pakistan 

Sadiq Garh Palace, Bahawalpur

from online sources)

Sadiq Garh Palace is another, perhaps the best and most famous of the palaces made by the former Nawabs of Bahawalpur state, in South Punjab, now in Pakistan (please also see earlier note below on Noor Mahal Palace) .

When Nawab Bahawal Khan Abbasi IV died in 1866, his son Sadiq was child of five, succeeded him. On his 18th birthday, Sadiq received the traditional 'dastaar' or turban and with it authority to rule over Bahawalpur as Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan IV.

Nawab Sadiq was a cultivated person and possessed of fine tastes. He was a great builder of palaces and as a connoisseur of Italian architectural practices left behind a number of extravagant buildings that flaunt his style and wealth. The finest and most well-known of these edifices that he made, was Sadiq Garh Palace, which was started in 1882 and completed thirteen years later in 1895. Sadly, fate decreed the Nawab only four years to enjoy the palace as he died in 1899, aged just 38.

Indeed, in this lasting monument to his taste, the Nawab created a masterful blend of vernacular and Italian architecture. The palace is a classic mixture of local and Italian building traditions as the Nawab’s wealth permitted him to acquire the services of an Italian architect. While the Italian executed the Baroque, working in close coordination with him were a number of local craftsmen to see that the imported did not completely take over the local. And so we have a plethora of bay windows, Mughal arches and domed minarets surmounted by a parapet with Italian ornamental details and domes. A happy mixture, all in all. However, it seems that the palace could be looked after better, it is a bit shabby at present.


See also: http://www.mybahawalpur.com/bwp/sadiqgarh.html

                                    Sadiq Garh Palace, Bahawalpur , South Punjab, Pakistan

Residence of former Dir Nawabs, in Dir, NWFP (Khyber Pakhtunkhwa), Pakistan

by Shirin Dil Khan

The Nawabs of Dir belong to the Akhun Khel family, who claim to have established their state in the mid-17th century, or possibly somewhat later.

Historically, there is little evidence of this family's existence before the 1870s and they seem to have concocted much 'old history' recently. Their residence, or 'Dir Nawab Fort' , is situated in the center of Dir town, in NWFP (Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province now) in Pakistan. It was a small state, and mostly over-shadowed by its larger neighbors Swat and Chitral, historically. Its first prominent ruler, who came into contact with the British, was Muhammad Shareef Khan, Khan of Dir from 1884 to 1904, who was originally styled 'Khan' but later on, in 1897, due to his loyalty to the British during the Frontier Uprising, was given the title of 'Nawab'. After him, the 4th and last Nawab of Dir was Shahjahan Khan, and Dir state was formally abolished and became part of Pakistan in 1969.

The former Nawab's residence or fort, is a long rambling building, enclosing several compounds, outhouses, watchtowers and big and small lawns and gardens, within a walled enclosure. It was mostly renovated and reconstructed in its present form, in around the 1920s, or 1930s. It is still owned by the Dir ex-Nawabi family, although sadly they seem not to have taken too much interest in it.

                                Online sources, 2014--aerial view, Dir ex Nawabi fort/residence

Talpur Mirs Faiz Palace, Khairpur, Sindh

by Mir Ijaz Khan

Faiz Palace in Khairpur town, Sindh province, Pakistan, was originally built in 1798 by the Talpur Mirs, who were rulers there. It is a true architectural classic of that time, with some later 19th c innovations and etc. The Khairpur former princely state acceded to Pakistan in 1956.

This splendid palace is surrounded by vast gardens. Faiz Mahal is well maintained and has retained most of its grandeur. The pinkish coloured structure, with its gold and cream outlines, and with its mixture of Mughal and Indian Baroque styles, looks like a glamorous birthday cake, and is a unique looking and richly-furnished place.

It is still owned by the Talpur family, ex Mirs/rulers of Khairpur state, some of whom live here.

                                     Faiz Mahal Palace, Khairpur town, Sindh, Pakistan 

Shigar Fort, Baltistan, Northern Pakistan

(adapted from online sources)

Built in the 17th century by one of the warring Rajas of Baltistan, the Shigar Fort is a perfectly restored example of the traditional fortress-palace. Home to countless generations of the Amacha royal family, it was built to serve as both a refuge and as a celebration of the traditional heritage of this dynasty.

Today, exquisitely restored in 2004, to its former glory by local artisans using only traditional methods, the Fong-Khar Fort, or ‘Palace of the Rock' is a special tourist hotel that offers just 20 guest rooms, all of which are presented with all the richness and intricate beauty of their original incarnation. Additionally, the Residence offers its own restaurant, reception rooms, gardens and gift shop, all of which spearhead an ambitious programme, designed by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC), which is dedicated towards making all the advantages of a socially-responsible tourism programme realizable in the remote mountains of Northern Pakistan.

The Shigar Fort is an excellent example of how expert restoration can help save an old building and utilise it for practical purposes.

                     View of Shigar Fort (hotel now) from an online source, 2014 

Wali's Residence, Swat

(adapted from online sources)

Residence of the last Wali of Swat, Miangul Jahanzeb (1908-1987), is located in the heart of Saidu Sharif town, Swat valley, North-West Pakistan.

This vast large building complex is the residence of the last Wali of Swat and his sons, completed sometime between 1935 and 1940. The building consists of the courtyard,houses,guest house and a vast lawn, with orchards and so on . Glimpses of European and Mughal architecture, mixed with native style, are seen in this eclectic building. It is still owned by the former Wali Swat family.


See also:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wali_of_Swat

                                     Wali's residence, Saidu Sharif, Swat, Pakistan 

Junagadh House, Karachi--Making do in a material age

Brief research/note by Ms Sabiha Parvez


The former Indian princely state of Junagadh (now part of Gujerat state in India) acceded to Pakistan on Sept 15, 1947.However, the majority Hindu population of the state instigated by the Congress Party local leaders, rejected this decision and revolted and the Indian Army started to move in, to take over the area. His Highness Nawab Mahabat Khanji III, the lastruler of Junagadh, escaped to tne new state of Pakistan at that time, barely making it to Karachi city there, along with somefew relatives and servants. He was alloted some modest financial benefits by the Government of Pakistan and also given some land in Sindh and Punjab provinces and also, as his residence, allotted a big old house in Karachi, which had been left vacant by some rich Hindus fleeing to India at partition. This modern style town house was thereafter styled 'Junagadh House'
and late Nawab Mahabat Khanji died here, a sad and disillusioned man, on November 7, 1959.

With Nawab Mahabat Khanji's death, the title of Nawab of Junagadh died out, formally and legally, he was the last 'de facto' and 'de jure' Nawab; but his son, Dilawar Khanji, kept on living in Junagadh House, Karachi, and despite extensive litigation against him by other relatives claiming shares in various properties given the family in Pakistan, he kept on claiming his supposed 'right' to the title and to all the benefits and privileges thereof. In Pakistan, he was granted the use of the title as courtesy, for his lifetime only, and he served for a short while as Governor, of the Sindh province, under the Zulfikar Ali Bhutto regime. Dilawar Khanji, so-called 'Nawab' of a Junagadh that no longer existed, died in 1989. He was survived by his
junior wife, Begum Sahiba of Junagadh, and the following offspring:

1. Mr Jahangir Khanji, who now chooses to style himself as 'Nawab' and claims the defunct title;

2. Mr Alamgir Khanji, who is a banker in Karachi.

3. Mr Zaheer Khanji, who is also a banker in Karachi. and

4. Miss Aliya Khanji, daughter, who is an officer in the Pakistan Customs.

All of these people still live in Junagadh House, on Fatima Jinnah Road, Karachi. In addition, part of this luxurious and sprawling, valuable property in the heart of Karachi city, is leased out as a wedding and functions' venue, advertised amongst Karachi's noveau riche elite as 'the Royal Residence of the last Nawab of Junagadh, an ideal location for a grand wedding'. Thus, in this material day and age, an old family and their last place of retreat, are able to make do.


Also see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nawab_of_Junagarh (For list of Nawabs and brief background)





1. Junagadh House today, night view

2. Coat of Arms of former Junagadh state

Kalat House, Kalat, Baluchistan

by Irshad Ahmed Khan


The Khans of Kalat ruled the Kalat princely state, in Baluchistan, from the mid-17th century onwards. They belonged to the Baluchi Qambrani/Ahmadzai tribe, who usurped the earlier rule of a Hindu Raja, Sehwa, who had ruled in that region prior to 1665 AD. In that year Mir Ahmed Khan I removed this raja and assumed power, in late 1665 or early 1666, as first Khan of the Kalat state. After that, some 16 generations of his family or dynasty ruled there.

Originally, the Khans of Kalat used to live in an old fortess which was badly damaged or alomst destroyed, by an earthquake in 1930s. At that time, Mir Ahmad Yar Khan was ruling, as last Khan of Kalat (who later on acceded to Pakistan in 1955) and he wished to build a modern style house in main Kalat town. He thus obtained the services of some architect in Karachi, Sindh (the nearest big city), reputed to be probably a Hindu or Sikh, who came and designed the house, which was later constructed by some Sikh contractors or overseers, in late 1930s.

This house became quite famous later on as it had a unique shape and design and was much appreciated by 'modernists' in India. However, most people in Kalat thought it was not too nice, as they prefered an old and traditional Eastern type of fort or palace residence. However, they could not say this out as the Khan of Kalat had a strict and harsh regime and people feared they might be punished for their criticism. Today it seems most people in Baluchistan province of Pakistan have forgotten those dark days and are wanting to return to that repressive time.

 

                                  Close up view of Kalat House, Kalat, Baluchistan province of Pakistan 

Royal Fort, Chitral

Dr Iftikhar Malik

The Royal Fort of Chitral, is situated in Chitral, NWFP/KP, Pakistan. It used to be the main seat of the former 'Mehtars' or 'Rajas' (rulers) of the ex-princely state of Chitral. They belonged to the Kator or Katur Dynasty, who ruled there since the 1560s.

The Royal Fort in Chitral has a commanding position on the Chitral River. It is believed to have been built in the 1560s and was restored in 1774 and 1911, respectively. It is still owned by the descendants of the former Chitral royal family and they live there when in their native area. One can only enter it with permission from the owners. A mosque, the 'Shahi Masjid' (Royal Mosque) is also adjacent to the Fort, and was built by one of the rulers, Shuja ul Mulk,  in the 1930s. He is buried in a coner of the mosque.

The ex royal family of Chitral also own a Summer palace, or lodge,  at a place called Birmoghlasht, on top of a mountain looking down from 9000 feet unto Chitral town and fort below.

    

                                 Chitral Fort, front view, online photo source, 2014 

The Noor Mahal Palace, Bahawalpur

(from Wikipedia and other online sources)

The Noor Mahal is a palace in Bahawalpur, South Punjab, Pakistan. It was built in 1872 like an Italian chateau on neoclassical lines, at a time when modernism had set in. It belonged to the Nawab of Bahawalpur princely state, during British Raj. Its name means 'Palace of Light'.

There are various stories regarding its construction. According to one legend, Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan IV had the palace made for one of his wives, who was a special favourite; however, she was only there for one night, as she happened to see the adjoining graveyard from her balcony, and refused to spend another night there, and so it remained unused during his reign.

Noor Mehal is one of the hidden gems of Bahawalpur, due to the lack of publicity. The palace is open to public. It is currently in the possession of the Pakistan Army and is used as a state guest house for holding state durbars and meetings with foreign delegations.

Also see

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noor_Mahal

   
                                      Noor Mahal Palace, Bahawalpur. (c) Wikipedia 2014

Altit and Baltit Forts, Hunza Valley, Northern Pakistan

(adapted and compiled from online sources)

Altit and Baltit forts are two ancient forts, belonging to the family of the Mirs (rulers) of Hunza, a remote but lovely valley and formerly a small princely state of Northern Pakistan.

Altit Fort is an ancient fort above Karimabad town in the Hunza valley. It was originally home to the hereditary rulers of the Hunza state who carried the title Mir, although they moved to the somewhat younger Baltit fort nearby three centuries later. Altit Fort and in particular the Shikari tower is around 1100 years old, which makes it the oldest monument in the Gilgit–Baltistan region.

The Altit Fort was in great disrepair, but has recently been restored jointly by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, the Historic Cities Support Programme and the Government of Norway. It is characterized by small rooms and low portals with exquisite wood carvings. Japan has contributed to the renovation of the surrounding old village. Altit Fort is a tourist site which has been open to the public since 2007, after its restoration.

The Baltit Fort is somewhat newer, dating to circa the 14th century, and the Mir family of Hunza lived here since that time, abandoning the older Altit Fort.

In the past, the survival of the feudal regime of Hunza was ensured by the impressive Baltit Fort, which overlooks Karimabad town. The foundations of the fort date back to 700 years ago, with rebuilds and alterations over the centuries. In the 16th century the local prince married a princess from Baltistan who brought master Balti craftsmen to renovate the building as part of her dowry. The architectural style is a clear indication of Buddhist Tibetan influence in Baltistan at the time.

The Mirs of Hunza abandoned the fort in 1945, and moved to a new palace down the hill. The fort started to decay which caused concern that it might possibly fall into ruin. Following a survey by the Royal Geographical Society of London a restoration programme was initiated and supported by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and the Historic Cities Support Programme. The programme was completed in 1996 and the fort is now a museum run by the Baltit Heritage Trust.


See also

http://www.hunzanagar.com/textpage.php?id=212

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altit_Fort

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baltit_Fort

 

                           1. A view of Altit Fort, Hunza Valley (Wikipedia photo)

 

                         2. A view of Baltit Fort, Hunza Valley (Wikipedia photo)